Introduction

Cours Mirabeau is Aix's main thoroughfare. The left side of the Cours leads to the Palais de Justice (judicial center), which carries into the Town Hall area and Aix's old town before coming to the city's Sextius district. On the right side of Cours Mirabeau, Mazarin is the first area you come to and thereafter the area of Carnot, which is sandwiched between Sextius to the north and the university district to the south. The immediate outskirts of the city are divided up geographically and are described here as northern, southern, western and eastern Aix .

Mirabeau

A walk along Cours Mirabeau (laid out in 1651), with its many fountains and abundance of greenery, is an essential part of a visit to Aix. In the depths of winter, hot water flows from the Moussue fountain in the middle of the Cours, enveloping the immediate surroundings in a shroud of mist. At the far end of the Cours, Place de la Rotonde is home to the fountain of the same name, an imposing cast-iron basin topped by cherubs from whose lips water continuously trickles. Both sides of the Cours are lined with luxury boutiques (including' Cartier), as well as smart brasseries modeling themselves on the Deux Garçons cafe-brasserie and its famous terrace, now listed as a historic building. Art lovers will be pleased with the nearby Galerie d'art du Conseil General (county council art gallery), which favors works by regional artists. Just a few steps away, Rue Espariat is where one can find the Museum d'histoire naturelle (natural history museum), situated within the magnificent Hôtel Boyer d'Eguilles. Palais de Justice

The Palais de Justice area on the right side of the Cours Mirabeau took shape in 1590 and began to resemble its present state around 1790. Previously the site of the royal gardens, these were transformed during a series of renovations orchestrated by rich statesmen and merchants. After renovation, the former prison next to the current Palais de Justice, became Aix-en-Provence's Cour d'appel (Court of Appeal), second only to Paris' Court of Appeal in terms of importance. However what's really worth seeing here happens every Saturday morning! This is when the square is transformed into a huge open-air antiques market: a big favorite with the locals and an integral part of Aix life. The north side of the square features a grand flight of steps leading up to the Palais de Justice, and the southern side is where the eglise de la Madeleine (Madeleine church) is located. The Verdun's terrace is the ideal vantage point from which to watch passersby, and in the same square, the Makaire bookshop — an Aix institution — is close by for you to pop into.

Town Hall

The oldest part of the city is situated on the western boundary of the Palais de Justice area. Tucked away in a 17th-century townhouse is the Musee du Vieil Aix, a museum that captures the very essence of Aix's past and a treasure trove of information on local tradition and customs. The Halle aux Grains (a former grain exchange, is a testiment to Provence's agricultural prosperity), the Town Hall, and the Place d'Albertas are wonderful examples of the city's rich heritage and architecture. The layout of superb buildings such as these has created a number of small squares that host (on a daily basis) typical Provençal markets such as the Marche aux herbes (market selling local produce) and the Marche floral (flower market). Meanwhile, tasty local specialties can be purchased on the spot in a variety of fine boutiques such as Brûlerie Richelme (coffee), Confiserie Entrecasteaux (confectionery) and Jacquèmes (delicatessen). Finally, Rue de la Couronne is undoubtedly the best place to come if you enjoy trying different kinds of cuisine, with restaurants such as L'Acteur, Le Saf and La Flambee des Bourras offering a wide variety of delicacies.

Aix's old town

This part of the city is the continuation of the Town Hall area. The Cathedrale Saint Sauveur bears witness to the presence of Christianity in Aix as far back as the 5th century. Nearby, the first floor of the former Archevêche (archbishop's palace) is home to the Musee des Tapisseries. This building's inner courtyard also serves as the perfect backdrop for the Festival d'Art Lyrique (Operatic Festival), which has been held here every summer since 1948. A few steps further one finds delightful bookshops like Divine Comedie and Rue des Bouquinistes Obscurs, popular destinations for collectors of rare books. Sextius

Situated around Boulevard Jean-Jaurès - the street marking the boundary between this area and the old part of Aix-Sextius is situated on the site of the old medieval town. Excavations have revealed old Roman baths here, on top of which the Aquabella hotel complex (offering visitors thalasso-therapy treatment in luxury surroundings) now stands. Graced with a magnificent formal garden, the Pavillon Vendôme (built in 1655), remains Aix locals' favorite place for a stroll. If you're keen to sample Aix culture and nightlife, theater buffs should find something to suit them just a few minutes from here, in the Maison des Jeunes et de la Culture Jacques Prevert, while those who want to check out the local music scene should try Le Bistrot Aixois.

Mazarin

Named after the seventeenth-century archbishop who designed it, the Mazarin area on the left side of Cours Mirabeau is filled with townhouses. Although the area was in the past inhabited exclusively by members of Parliament and the upper middle classes, today it has become a favorite location for haute couture fashion houses such as Agnès B. In the heart of Mazarin, Place des Quatre-Dauphins is home to the fountain from which the square gets its name: an elegant basin surmounted by dolphins in mid-leap. The Cardinal and the Quatre-Dauphins are just two of the many hotels here, in which you're guaranteed a pleasant stay. Close by, Musee Arbaud, is home to one of the biggest collections of Provençal pottery.

Carnot

Carnot's Cours St-Louis runs alongside the city's outer ring on the edge of the Mazarin area. Situated in Cours St-Louis, the Theâtre de la Fonderie is a showcase for talented local actors, while not far from here, the Fontaine d'Argent is geared more towards stand-up comedy and humor. Provence's oldest Gothic building, the St-Jean-de-Malte church, built in the 13th century, is also here; its neighbour, the former Palais de Malte, is today the Musee Granet, which exhibits important archaeological and art collections.

University district

Avenue Robert-Schuman, situated in the southern part of the Carnot area, is the district's main road and a large student population is spread over the various university campuses here. The area's Theâtre Antoine Vitez is well known for its original productions.

Southern Aix

The city's south side contains the Aix-les-Milles commercial district, shopping complexes such as Carrefour, and a range of leisure activities. Get your skates on for a visit to the Megaglace ice rink. Meanwhile the Cite du Livre (which you on your way out of Aix-en-Provence) is an attractively laid out complex filled with row upon row of books and audiovisual material.

Aix North

The Cours des Alpes, situated on the northern edge of the city, is the first point of contact with the surrounding countryside. Painter Paul Cezanne fell in love with its beauty, building a house here, (today the Atelier Cezanne museum), which allowed him to paint the northern slopes of Mount Saint-Victoire to his heart's content. A visit to the city's inner suburbs invariably includes a tour of its vineyards, such as Château Revelette in Jouques or gives you the opportunity of learning more about the art of cement tile making still made the traditional way at the Carocim factory situated in the nearby town of Puyricard.

Aix West

Heading for Saint-Cannat, the route des vins or wine trail attracts connoisseurs and tourists alike, and a visit to vineyards such as Château de Beaupre or Château-Bas more often than not includes an enjoyable wine-tasting session! Also here is the Fondation Vasarely (named after its illustrious creator Victor Vasarely, the visionary painter of Hungarian origin), which has a permanent exhibition of his works.

Aix East

Mount Saint-Victoire looms on the horizon to the east of Aix. Traveling through local villages like Le Tholonet or Beaurecueil on your way there not only takes you through sublime scenery but also provides the ideal opportunity to stop for a delicious meal on the way; gourmet restaurants abound such as the Relais Ste-Victoire or the Mas de la Bertrande. Experiencing for yourself the fragrant pathways and wild moorland that were so dear to Cezanne remains an essential part of any visit to Aix.