Tours

Despite its status as a capital city, the sleepy metropolis of Vientiane feels more like a small town, and most points of interest are easily accessed by foot--especially as the city is almost completely flat. Alternatively, there are many places that hire out bicycles, and this is also a pleasant way to see the sights. If you decide to walk and find yourself getting weary, just grab one of the many tuk-tuks that continually cruise the streets. The following suggestions for walking tours are all centered around small areas that border each other and could be combined if you feel particularly energetic.

Morning Market Walk Start where Lane Xang Avenue, the main street of Vientiane, meets Thanon Setthathirat. Here you will find the grand Presidential Palace. As you look at the palace, on the left is Ho Phrakeo. This quiet and beautiful temple, set in pleasant gardens, was once used solely by Lao royalty. It is now a museum housing an interesting collection of Buddhist images. On the corner of Lane Xang Avenue, opposite Ho Phrakeo, is another important temple, Wat Sisaket. This is the oldest surviving temple in Vientiane, dating from 1818, and within its walls you will find a gracious, shady haven. The cloisters surrounding the main temple contain thousands of Buddhist statues, and there are beautiful, though decaying, murals of the life of Buddha on the interior walls of the main ordination hall.

Continuing down Lane Xang Avenue for two blocks, past some fine examples of French colonial architecture, brings you to the Morning Market. You could easily spend hours browsing amongst the jewelry and textiles alone here, the biggest market in Vientiane. From there continue up Lane Xang to Patuxai, a gray monument resembling the Arc de Triomphe. The Lao version celebrates the victory of the Lao revolution in 1975. It was reportedly built from cement donated by the United States intended for use at the airport, hence earning it the nickname "the vertical runway." Climb to the top for some great views of the city.

Three roads branch out from Patuxai--take the right hand one, and it will lead you to That Luang. As the most important temple in the country, it is a fitting end to this tour. It is impossible to miss the golden spire of the main stupa, a national symbol that is ubiquitous in Laos. This is also the site of That Luang Festival, the biggest annual event in the Vientiane calendar.

Riverside Walk Start at the Lane Xang Hotel and head west along Fa Ngum Road for a leisurely walk with plenty of diversions. You might like to stop at Mixay Massage for a foot massage to get you in the mood before strolling along the banks of the Mekong, with the odd foray into a side street or two. The first of these is just a block past Mixay Massage. Turn right just after Nazim Restaurant and you will find Mandalay Furniture, where browsing among the exquisitely hand-carved items is almost as satisfying as buying. Go back to Fa Ngum Road and keep heading west until you come to Khounbouloum Street. Turn right there to check out handicrafts and artwork at Couleur d'Asie. On the same street you will find Wat Inpeng and behind it Wat Ong Teu, an important temple with an impressively large bronze Buddha. Down a side street next to Wat Inpeng is T'Shop Lai, a gallery filled with local and foreign artwork, furniture and handicrafts.

Retrace your steps to Fa Ngum Road and keep heading west. The road soon changes from paved to dirt, but the trade-off is that it is much shadier. Stop at any of the simple wooden terrace restaurants lining the riverbank for a refreshing drink or a bite to eat. If you continue all the way up the road until it turns away from the river you will find the Sala Sunset Bar. Time your walk to arrive for a drink just as the sun sinks slowly over the Mekong. Unforgettable.

Samsenthai Road Take this short walk for a combination of culture and shopping. Begin at That Dam, the Black Stupa. According to local legend, this is the home of a seven-headed dragon that sleeps coiled beneath its spire and will come to life to protect Vientiane citizens in times of need. From there walk roughly a hundred meters south, which will bring you out on Samsenthai Road. Turning right will bring you into a block lined with interesting shops. Stop at Bari Jewelry or Saigon Bijoux for fine jewelry and check out Mandarina or Lao Development Cotton and Silk for original clothing and accessories. For souvenirs and handicrafts, try Maevana.

The next corner brings you to Pangkham Street. Turn right for a look at the impeccably restored French colonial mansion that is now the Settha Palace Hotel, or turn left for more souvenir and tailors shops. The latter course will also lead you to Nam Phu Fountain, which is a nice place to stop for a cool drink. Heading back to Samsenthai Road, continue west past the Lao Plaza Hotel—where you may want to stop for a swim--to the Lao National Museum. A stroll around its exhibits will give you greater insight into Lao history and culture. Across the street is the Lao National Cultural Hall, an impressive edifice recently built with money donated by China. A nice way to end your walk would be to return to where you first entered Samsenthai Road. On a corner there you will find Kualao Restaurant, which serves excellent Lao food to the accompaniment of live traditional music and dancing.

Of course, do not be afraid to improvise your own routes. There is much to see and the Lao are always happy to see a new face.