Restaurants and Bars

Moscow's contemporary wining and dining scene is utterly unlike anything that existed here during the age of the Iron Curtain. The transformation of the city from Communist citadel tо Capitalist frontier land is reflected in the entirely new range of restaurants that have sprung up since the beginning of the 1990s – Irish bars, snazzy American diners, expensive Japanese restaurants, Australian pubs...the list goes on. From the thriving fast-food scene tо the numerous prestigious restaurants serving the new elites, eating and drinking in Moscow need never be boring. Moscow also harbors a surprisingly rich stock of ethnic cuisine from around the former Soviet Union, the most widespread being that of Georgia (a former Soviet republic tо the south) but also including Central Asian and other Caucasian varieties.

If you've got the money, Moscow's selection of top class restaurants is unbeatable. Restaurants tend tо adopt a theme and wring it dry, so a visit tо the folk-based Sloboda really is a trip into Russian traditional culture (although you can bet the food wasn't this good in a Russian village of yesteryear). Other opportunities for high-quality Russian cuisine and exquisite presentation are offered at top-notch restaurants such as Serebrianyi Vek (the name means 'Silver Century'), Tsarskaia Okhota (a hunting-themed favorite of Yeltsin), Pushkin and many more.

Fuji is an excellent Japanese option, while Le Gastronome offers unbeatable international cuisine (principally seafood, including shark) for a sizable wad of rubles.

For straight Russian cuisine, the choice is understandably extensive. Popular dishes include borshch (beetroot soup) and pel'meni (something like ravioli). Pickled fish is a popular starter, while main courses are predominantly meat-based, typically accompanied by rice or potatoes and a dollop of carrot or cabbage salad.

Khlestakov Traktir, Oblomov and Godunov are all themed restaurants. The first is a tavern-like affair popular with bohemian types, the second is based on a famous Russian literary work, while the third is situated in an 18th century basement. Red Square 1 is a fine 19th-century style restaurant as centrally located as its name suggests. Bear Kingdom is notable for having a live bear on the premises.

Cheaper or middle-of-the-range options include Bunker, Kafe Ogonek, Kitezh, Shury-Mury, U Babushki and Danilovskii.

Moscow's population includes a large portion of people hailing from the outlying territories of the former Soviet Union, including a very significant number from the former republic of Georgia. These minorities have left a pretty visible impression on the restaurant scene in Moscow and Georgian food – distinguished by its generous portions and spicy temper – is a popular choice. Typical dishes include shashlik (skewered meat), kharcho (spicy meat soup) or khachipuri (bread with melted cheese). You can sample such dishes at restaurants like Mama Zoia's, Kabanchik, Genatsvale or the slightly more expensive Argo.

Other favourites from former USSR satellites include the Mongolian (Elki-Palki or Tamerlan), the Uzbek (Kishmish) and the Ukranian (Shinok and Vechera na Khutore (Evenings on a Farm).

Americans missing their homeland can find abundant comfort in places like Uncle Guilly's, the American Bar & Grill and the inevitable TGI Friday's. The Starlite Diner plays on 50's pop culture while specializing in expensive breakfasts and lunches.

There are plenty of Italian options: Amarcord is reasonably priced, meals at Gratzi are elegantly presented, the Italian president expressed a fondness for the more expensive La Cipolla d'Oro and Papa John's is a popular option situated in the same premises as the Johnny Fat Boy bar. There are also straightforward pizza joints aplenty – Pizza Hut obviously, but also Sbarro, Patio Pizza and Pizza Express.

Other European options include German eateries such as the Beer Bar or Bierstube and the Schwein restaurant. The French contingent is made up of a wide range of restaurants. Butterfly and Brasserie du Soleil are moderately priced, while Le Chaletand Le Duc are a bit more on the expensive side.

There are also plenty of Asian restaurants in town. Fans of Chinese cuisine can go for the upmarket Dinastiia, the moderately priced Junk Boat and Temple of the Moon or Five Spices, which serves spicy Indian as well as Chinese food.

Japanese restaurants are well-represented by the likes of It's Sushi, Laluna and Jakitorja while Korean cuisine is represented by the well-established Silla among others.

Tacos, burritos and the usual Mexican/Tex-Mex fare is available at the lively Hola Mexico and the La Cantina bar and restaurant. Santa Fe has the added distinction of pool tables, while Pancho Villa is known for its generous portions.

No ex-pat population is ever really happy without an Irish bar – get your Guiness at the Shamrock Bar, Rosie O'Grady's or Sally O'Brian's. There are also some British-themed pubs, like two John Bull Pub pubs offering distinct atmospheres and the The Horse and Hound.

This guide only scratches the surface of Moscow's deliciously varied wining and dining scene.