Restaurants and Bars

There was a time not long ago when all Budapest had to offer its hoards of hungry tourists and locals were hundreds of traditional restaurants offering slabs of fatty breaded and fried pork, surly service and not a vegetable in sight. How times have changed! Since 1990 and the new political system, restaurants, clubs, bars and cafes have begun appearing in the hundreds. Now, you can find more dishes than you can shake a chip at, involving every ingredient from whatever country takes your fancy, from the high luxury of Gundel to the simple student handout, from Mongolian barbecued meat to Middle Eastern falafel chickpea balls and salad.

District II & District III

You can eat anything and everything here from fast food (McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fried Chicken) to long leisurely lunches for business or pleasure on the leafy terraces of Remiz. Fish eaters should set sail for the Horgasztanya on the Buda bank of the River Danube.

Kacsa offers some of the best duck, and for great goose liver, try the Magnaskert etterem. Maharaja, which serves up some divine concoctions and is very vegetarian-friendly. The underwater-themed restaurant Vasmacska in Obuda's ancient square, whose name translates as “anchor,” serves delicious cuts of meat and also has vegetarian dishes.

District V

The French are justifiably proud of their cuisine, and it is possible to dine comme les rois in Kepiro, La Fontaine and Lou Lou without breaking the bank. The combination of delicious fresh Hungarian vegetables—succulent tomatoes, peppers, organic mushrooms—and fresh sea fish flown in thrice weekly makes for healthy haute cuisine.

Chinese cuisine is best exemplified by Tian Tan while Japanese sushi, sashimi and noodle bars offer exotic delicacies. Central Kavezo, a source of literary inspiration at the turn of the last century and now rapidly recreating the ambiance of well-read society, is a great place to spend the day. Hungarians love their cakes and Gerbeaud and Auguszt make some of the most mouth-watering pastries, desserts and torte. One thing to try is the Langos—a Hungarian delicacy. This deep-fried frisbee-sized doughnut is served with sour cream, grated cheese and a splash of garlic water dribbled from a jam jar using a twig and feather device. Such delights are more difficult to find these days, replaced by the all-pervasive burger, but you can still try one in vegetable or flea markets and these are an essential start to bargain hunting on a bitter winter's morning—preferably accompanied by a shot of powerful pear palinka (brandy).

District VI

Sip a cocktail with a famous blues singer at Janis' Pub. Pompei Pizzeria on Liszt Ferenc square is a convenient and tasty way to fill up before hitting the trendy bars in Pest's most fashionable hang-out. While on the subject, vegetarians are now much better off than even just a decade ago, when the sole, melancholy option consisted of fried cheese/cauliflower/mushroom with a “salad” or pickled cucumber. Now, many restaurants offer imaginative vegetable dishes (try the gorgeous tapas at Ket Szerecsen). If you want to experience a traditional atmosphere you can find it in many coffee houses; Muvesz is one of the most well-known. Its cakes are a major draw for tourists.

District VII

Theme bars are also very popular - you could dine in a submarine at Club Verne. Hungarians adore Italian food and Fausto's serves some of the best. Despite its reputation, Hungarian food is not particularly spicy, so for something with a little bite, you could try Indian restaurants such as Shalimar Indiai Etterem. Of course, visitors to Hungary will not want to leave without trying a Hungarian dish with some excellent local wine - goulash, chicken paprika, fozelek (vegetable goop) and reds from Villanyi and Eger in traditional, atmospheric surroundings. Kulacs is a good place to sample the food while listening to talented Gypsy musicians. This is where Rezso Seress composed “Gloomy Sunday,” which could be said to be a theme tune for the bitter sweet Magyar soul. Feszek is an old artists' lounge that serves many varieties of game stew.