Introduction

Undoubtedly the brightest jewel on the Danube, present-day Budapest was created in 1873 from the separate towns of Buda, Pest and Obuda. Its population of 2 million resides in 23 districts—the central ones will be covered here.

The definitive view of Budapest is that of the Castle District located within the first district. It is an absolute must see, and can easily be accessed by a lovely funicular cable car that offers great views on the way up to the castles. It's hard to imagine that the palace and entire hill with its medieval and baroque residences were utterly flattened during World War II. More baroque splendor extends along Fo utca (Main Street) and flanks Batthyany ter, site of the most spectacular Buda-side view of Pest and the Parliament Building.

The adjacent Gellert Hill and the Citadella form part of the profile of the first district. The hills drop abruptly into the river and define the city's geography, an utterly flat Pest sits on the opposite bank and the majestic Danube flows between them.

The city center (Belvaros) is Pest's District V, embracing the area within the Kiskorut (little boulevard). With the awe-inspiring brick and tiled hulk of the Vasarcsarnok (main market hall) at one end, its spine is the affluent retail hub that is the Vaci utca. The city's administrative flank, the Lipotvaros section, extends between Bajcsy-Zsilinsky and the Danube. It includes the Parliament Building and the many ministries that make up the country's administration. Less institutionalized corruption has ensured that the array of shops and restaurants in this district is ever-changing: here today, gone tomorrow.

District VI is the city's mainstream cultural wedge and features Andrassy ut, Budapest's most beautiful boulevard, that has two ends: the traffic center Deák Square where all three metro lines meet and Heroes' Square one of the city's most important monuments that stands before the City Park. A short walk will take you to one of Budapest's main luxury attractions and what is one or Europe's largest spas, the Szechenyi Thermal Baths. The Andrassy ut is also considered Budapest's very own 'Broadway' when it crosses Nagymezo utca and the Opera House both of which are comfortably ensconced here among the hundreds of eclectic buildings. Franz Liszt ter has become the city's social hot spot, particularly during the summer when the hip hold court at the half a dozen outdoor bars and cafes that spill out onto the pavement.

District VII is Budapest's historic Old Jewish Quarter, containing several synagogues, Kosher bakeries, restaurants, hotels, and a happening night life. One recurring architectural theme is the presence of long, interconnected courtyards that link two parallel streets, out of practical and strategic necessity. The most incredible example of this is the haunting, vacant Gozsdu udvar. The sixth undoubtedly has the best 'neighborhood' feel of all the districts within the Nagykorut.

The eighth could also be known as the 'District of Ill Repute.' Rakoczi ter has long since entered the lexicon as more than just a place name, but other areas have outshone it in its brand of commerce. There have been many attempts to establish Red Light Districts for legal prostitution here in Jozsefvaros, and just as many attempts to discourage them. However, visitors won't run into any brazen tawdriness unless they venture outside the Nagykorut.

District IX, Ferencvaros, is similar in character to the working-class if not downright impoverished eighth, except that it is now an 'up-and-coming' area. Trendy bars and cafes are springing up on Raday utca and in the section bounded by the Nagykorut. Gentrification will continue due to the potential for development alongside the Danube. It is definitely still worth a visit for tourists as the marvelous Museum of Applied Arts can be found here. Though technically in the 8th district, the beautiful Hungarian National Museum with its unique architecture is just a few steps from Raday street, and is also worth the trip.

Pop across the river again to Obuda ('Old Buda'), which makes up District III. It was the site of the Roman encampment Aquincum, the northernmost frontier of the Roman Empire in continental Europe. Consequently, many amphitheatres and artifacts have been unearthed here. However, many of Budapest's oldest and most beautiful dwellings were razed during the Communist period in order to make way for the huge apartment blocks just off Arpad bridge. Practically all that remains is a small collection of (restored) buildings around Fo ter.

District II, the Rozsadomb, or 'Rose Hill,' is where Budapest's elite live. Dotted thickly with old villas and embassy residences, it got its name from the Turk Gul Baba, whose tomb is reached via a cobblestone lane.

District XII is the gateway to the Buda Hills and serenity, a mere few minutes from Moszkva ter. Buda's tallest hill, Janos Hegy, presides over this area, and there are many spectacular views to check out here from the chair-lift, Children's Railway and the Cogwheel Railway. The latter two also service Szechenyi Hill.

District XI is where the bourgeois of Buda lived before they took to the hills, but the area remains quite affluent. It curves around Gellert Hill and extends to the border of Budapest itself. Most of the activity in this district centers around Moricz Zsigmond korter and the Technical University, which fronts a huge stretch of the River Danube between Szabadsag and Lagymanyosi bridges. To experience some solace in this bustling neighborhood make sure to take a trip to the Feneketlen to.