Tours

The best starting point for these tours is Place de la Comedie, the very heart of the city. Laid out in the 18th century with the magnificent Opera Comedie theater—an exact copy of Paris' opera house—on your left and the fountain of the Three Graces in the center, this wide open space is a naturally popular meeting place where people are always coming and going. Now pedestrianized, the square is also known as place de l'œuf (Egg square) because of the curved shape of the road that previously went through the square, which was particularly busy with heavy traffic up until the mid-1980s. A walk up Rue de la Loge will take you to the historic town center—a largely pedestrianized area—also referred to as the "Ecusson" or "shield" because of its shape, which means you can stroll at your leisure, far from the noise of the traffic, through streets that have held onto their charm. On the other hand, should you choose to go to the far side of the square on the right and through the Polygone shopping center, you'll discover another facet of the city: its modern, residential areas.

The historic town center

The best way to get to Montpellier's historic town center from Place de la Comedie, is to take one of the city's busiest shopping streets, Rue de la Loge, which has boutiques such as Chapellerie Alfred, and from which you'll be able to climb up onto the Clapas, the old Occitan name for the town, which means "little pile of stones". On the right, halfway along this street, marble-covered Jean Jaurès square and its many bars with terraces, are, once night falls, a favorite spot for young students out to enjoy themselves. Meanwhile on your left, is the Halles Castellane, where the colorful Halles aux Fleurs market takes place.

At the end of Rue de la Loge, after Place des Martyrs de la Resistance in which the city's prefecture is situated, turn right into tiny, but very pretty, Place Chabaneau, taking note of the Hôtel de Ganges, which is one of the many town houses built between the 17th and 18th centuries. From here, taking Rue du Palais des Guilhem on the left (named after a dynasty that brought prosperity to Montpellier from the moment it was founded, around 1000 A.D.), at 1, Rue de la Barralerie, you come to the Mikve, the oldest Jewish baths in Europe, which date from the 12th century (visits can be arranged through the Tourist Office.) A little further on, stopping for a drink at the Antidote Cafe in Place de la Canourgue — one of Montpellier's most beautiful and authentic squares, paved throughout and decorated with little gardens—might not be a bad idea.

At the far side of Place de la Canourgue, pause for a moment in front of the fine 18th century Richer de Bellreview town house to enjoy the unrestricted view of imposing Saint Pierre Cathedral, built in the 14th century. Go down Rue Sainte Croix and Rue Saint Pierre to get to the cathedral, and you come to its large square and vast entrance; the two huge columns are the outstanding features of the only church in Montpellier to have survived the wars of religion. (The church was, furthermore, restored in the 17th century.) Running on from here is the former Benedictine monastery taken over by the Faculty of Medicine, which was founded in 1289 and has the distinction of being one of Europe's oldest.

Walk up Rue de l'Ecole de Medecine and cross Boulevard Henri IV and the enchanting fragrances and greenery that abound in the restful Jardin des Plantes beckon, inviting you to wander through its flowers, bamboo and tropical rain forest. Initiated by Henri IV in 1593, this is one of France's oldest botanical gardens. From here, going back up Boulevard Henri IV on the right, you come to the pleasant Promenade du Peyrou, an esplanade marked by two statues of roaring lions. This former corn-threshing site became, in the 18th century, a place much coveted by royalty and is graced by a statue of Louis XIV. From this high point, there's a wonderful view: on one side the Larzac plateau, the Cevennes and Saint Loup Peak, while on the other, even the sea is visible on a clear day. At the end of the walk is an unusual-looking water tower whose reservoir is an extension of the les Arceaux aqueduct, where a great organic market takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Taking a walk here (depending on the time of the day), also provides the opportunity of sampling some of the seafood specialties available in La Bonne Bouille restaurant.

Going back towards the heart of the city by Rue Foch, you pass close to the Arc de Triomphe, erected in 1691 in honor of Louis XIV. On the left stands the former Palais de Justice (Law Courts), built in a neoclassical style on the site of a former castle. Finally, the visit finishes off on an artistic note. Take Rue du Petit Scel on the right, which leads to illuminated Carre Sainte Anne, a former church and a superb exhibition space, which nowadays houses a contemporary art gallery.

From Antigone to the banks of the Lez

Filled with offices and housing, the Antigone district was designed in 1979 by Catalonian architect Ricardo Bofill. This place, which for some looks like a film set, brings together a number of architectural influences: its classical but it incorporates the urban style of 20th century totalitarian countries such as the USSR and other former Eastern bloc countries. These colossal buildings are painted in quite light, uniform colors, and Antigone is oriented towards the Mediterranean.

Once you've gone through the Polygone shopping center, made up of a large number of shops spread over three levels, you come out onto Place du Nombre d'Or, which provides a huge vista dotted with trees, with, in the distance, Regional Council headquarters.

From here there's a succession of squares that lead from one to the other: first of all there's Place du Millenaire, which is calm and like a pedestrian precinct, and then you go under the arch on which the luxury restaurant Chandelier is situated. Once you've crossed Place de Thessalie, you find yourself directly opposite two buildings designed to improve living standards in the area: the Olympic-sized swimming pool and the new main library.

Keep going and you come back to the huge amphitheater of the Esplanade de l'Europe, a strange, shell-like space of impressive size. Then, walking past the many bars and restaurants situated here (such as the Valli and El Cuba Cafe), you see a building made entirely of glass—the Regional Council headquarters and its fountain. You'll now find yourself on the banks of the Lez.