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Bali's mother temple stands against a stupendous mountain backdrop on the southeastern slopes of Mount Agung. The largest on the island, this massive complex of 35 small temples attracts staggering numbers each year, being the main point of pilgrimage for Balinese Hindus. Tracing its origins to prehistoric times, the complex was untouched by the great 1963 eruption of Mount Agung, which wiped out surrounding villages. The complex also houses the oldest remaining gamelan instrument in Bali called selonding. The temple ceremony (odalan) falls on the 10th month of the Balinese calendar, in April.
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Known as the Mother Temple of Bali, Pura Besakih is the most sacred of all. On Gunung Agung's slopes, the complex has 30 temples -- one for every Balinese district -- on seven terraces. It's thought to have been built before Hinduism reached Bali. The structure consists of three main parts, the north …
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