Restaurants and Bars

Dining in Bali often kindles a desire for cultural immersion. Food aside, one should consider the crowd, setting and atmosphere for a truly exotic experience. Furthermore, the variety of spices and different methods of food preparation reflect the richness of the Balinese culinary heritage.

Among the island's traditional delights, the roast suckling pig ranks as the most far-famed. Known as guling celeng or babi guling, this delicacy is prepared by stuffing a young pig with chopped herbs and ground spices before putting it on a spit. Betutu bebek, another flagship dish, proves popular with foreign taste buds. The locals, however, generally reserve this spicy broiled duck for ritual feasts.

Kuta, Legian and Seminyak

Kuta and the surrounding areas provide plenteous opportunities to graze the world via the bold palate. Sample Japanese fare at Ryoshi or Take; excellent vegetarian food in lush surroundings at Aromas; authentic Indian flavors at Gateway of India; top-notch Thai cuisine at Kin Khao; and Chinese kitchen at Bale-Bali. The menu at TJ's leans toward California-style Mexican food, while Mamma Lucia Ristorante whips up good Italian meals in an old-world atmosphere.

To play it safe, visit Ku De Ta for their diverse selections from around the world or Bali Qui for a less expensive alternative. The classy Kori Restaurant features a fusion of Western and Balinese cuisine. For Indonesian fare, few in the area can hold a candle to Made's Warung. Alternatively, venture into the smaller local eateries and strike a conversation with the natives while sampling everyday grub. One can easily recognize Padang food by the cooked dishes displayed in the window fronts. For light snacks over a good cup of coffee, drop by Moka Patisserie Francais, Krakatau or Kopi Pot in Kuta.

The Seminyak/Legian area has carved itself a name in Bali's night life, affording a more fashionable and vibrant scene than south Kuta. Teeming with flashy expatriates, Goa 2001 is a case in point. Cafe Luna and Cafe Del Mar, a psychedelic groove bar with a Latin accent, lie among the highly-acclaimed drinking spots. Q Bar and Cafe, the island's alternative bar, and many other watering holes concentrate along Jalan Double Six and Jalan Dhyana Pura (better known as Jalan Gado Gado). In Kuta, The Macaroni Club or the classy Nero nearby make for some good wining and people-watching.

The Beat, published biweekly and distributed free in bars and restaurants across South Bali, contains a treasure trove of information on dining and night entertainment.

Sanur

Sanur's select dining establishments dish out excellent meals at modest prices. Hotel Tandjung Sari, which serves well-prepared Indonesian and European entrees, makes a good bet. On Saturday evenings, an artful Dutch-Indonesian rijstaffel (“rice table” replete with a variety of dishes) springs open, following a legong dance.

The kaleidoscope of haute cuisine in Sanur extends to independent restaurants, providing nourishment for tourists and affluent Bali residents alike. Mezzanine Restaurant & Bar and Spago Restaurant & Bar specialize in Mediterranean cuisine, while The Village Ristorante Italiano offers Italian, of course. Another branch of Mamma Lucia Ristorante sits along Jalan Danau Tamblingan. Long-surviving favorite Cafe Batujimbar presents a hearty international menu with some local specialties, as does Balimoon. Beachside options include Bonsai Cafe and Mango Bar & Restaurant, which provides live music nightly.

For some budget repast, try Ketut's Warung on Jalan Danau Poso and neighboring Warung Blanjong, which dole out predominantly Indonesian dishes, with a smattering of international flavors.

Jimbaran

One of Bali's oldest fishing villages, the Jimbaran area at the southern tip of the island enthralls even the most persnickety of seafood connoisseurs. Slip into comfortable clothing and footwear, then step into the sand-floored traditional food stalls. Fukutaro 4, Kafe Bagus, Cenggiling Cafe and Kafe Menega on Muaya Beach, and Cafe Roma and Ramayana Cafe on Kedonganan Beach all carry the same bill of fare—grilled fish, prawns, squids, clams and lobsters, complemented by spicy, sauteed water spinach called plecing kangkung. Be there early for dinner to catch the exhilarating sunset!

Ubud

Restaurants in Ubud tend to function also as regular hangouts. There is no rush to order, to pay or to serve. Casa Luna imparts a casual ambience, enabling patrons to appreciate Balinese artworks and the eclectic menu it offers. Doubling also as an art gallery, the Three Monkeys features a good mix of international and local cuisine.

Other establishments provide a feast along with the enchanting nature as a visual treat. Indus slants toward spicy Asian dishes and is sought for its magnificent views, whereas Tepi Sawah in Peliatan and the secluded Kampung Cafe in Tegalalang watch over spectacular rice fields.

Plenty of other established names in the area gratify discriminating diners. Sink your teeth into fusion delights at the elegant Ary's Warung, or dine in a picturesque setting with gamelan music at Cafe Lotus, just opposite. Then head on to Jazz Cafe farther up the road for some cocktails, billiards and live music.

A delectable selection of Balinese home cooking awaits at Batan Waru. Betutu bebek and other good finds can be relished at Dirty Duck Diner or Murni's Warung. The latter, in particular, has received much commendation since its inauguration in the mid-1970s, with its lush view of the Campuhan Gorge and scrumptious food.

Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa

Many esteemed restaurants in Nusa Dua are housed within hotels, the area being one of Bali's most exclusive tourist enclaves. Salsa Verde at Grand Hyatt scores for Mediterranean cuisine and Sorrento at Melia Bali for Italian. Matsuri at the Galeria Nusa Dua shopping complex makes a good business out of sushi, noodles and sashimi. Get away from the hotels by savoring tasty Mexican food in festive surroundings at Poco Loco.

On Jalan Pratama in Tanjung Benoa, Bumbu Bali showcases a refreshing approach to dining: Guests get to shop for raw materials at the local-produce and fish market and try their hand at native cooking. Renowned chef Heinz von Holzen leads these interesting classes, taking participants behind the scene into the Balinese kitchen.