Introduction

Among the album titles by Cleveland's favorite son, rocker Michael Stanley, were Heartland and North Coast. The two musical compilations sum up Cleveland's locale: North Coast of America's heartland. Sitting on the shores of Lake Erie, Cleveland is about as Midwest as Midwest gets. Part of a megalopolis that includes Akron, Youngstown, Canton and Toledo, Cleveland is no longer Ohio's biggest city (a distinction that now belongs to Columbus), but it is Ohio's center of culture and activity. Home to three of Ohio's six major professional sports teams, a world-famous orchestra and such new pearls as the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, Great Lakes Science Center, the city is keeping up with the world in terms of modernism. However, places like Ohio City and Collinwood serve as reminders that Cleveland, in spite of all its renovations, was once an industrial center.

Downtown

It is hard to imagine many places in the world having undergone the type of facelift Cleveland has seen over the past 15 years or so. From the dirty, damp and dingy steel town of the early 1980s has emerged a shiny new lakeside spectacle. A skyline once filled with smokestacks (and smoke) now boasts glowing towers, shiny stadiums and a host of modern museums and shopping centers. Jacobs Field, Gund Arena and Cleveland Browns Stadium, along with the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum and Great Lakes Science Center, are the architectural and cultural creations that define downtown's rebirth. The Key Tower a skyscraper built since the mid-1980s, joins the 70-year-old Terminal Tower to give Cleveland a skyline that reflects both its history and its future. With Playhouse Square and its multiple venues just a stone's throw from Public Square, the downtown area will never leave visitors wanting something to do.

The Flats

Located down the hill from downtown on the very near-west side of the city, the Flats has been reborn with the rest of the city. The clean up of the once-burning Cuyahoga River has coincided with the emergence of this entertainment district. Highlighted by such establishments as The Basement, Howl at the Moon Saloon, Shooters on the Water and The Powerhouse (home to several shops and dining establishments), the Flats is where you will find Cleveland's most active nightlife. The recently built Nautica Stage offers outdoor concerts by popular national acts throughout the summer. This area is where many of Cleveland's adult entertainment sites, such as Tiffany's Cabaret, can be found. The Flats is located near the mouth of the Cuyahoga, a few meanders north of the steel belt, where a handful of refineries are still productive.

University Circle

Centered around the prestigious Case Western Reserve University, this enclave about 4½ miles east of downtown is a haven for museum-goers, as well as those looking for quaint shops and cozy eateries. Home to no fewer than nine museums, including Cleveland Museum of Art, the Children's Museum of Cleveland, the Cleveland Museum of Natural History and Society Western Reserve Historical Society, the neighborhood has an almost Smithsonian feel. Culture seekers are not limited to museums. Visitors to University Circle will find Severance Hall, home of the Cleveland Orchestra, Lyrica Opera Cleveland, the Cleveland Play House and the Cleveland Institute of Music. Those not taking in a show can rest their feet at the like of the Chicago Deli and Restaurant, Phoenix's University Circle Cafe, the Severance Restaurant and the Uptowne Grille, among others.

Little Italy

You do not have to be Leonardo to figure out what this neighborhood has to offer. Also known as Murray Hill, most denizens prefer the more quaint title, which reflects the area's culture. Most of that, not surprisingly, revolves around the culinary. You do not have to look too hard to find a steaming plate of pasta. From Salvatore's Restaurant to Trattoria Roman Gardens to Nido Italia, the Italian food lover will always have a place to satiate his or her palate. The most popular tourist spot in Little Italy may be the Alta House, an activity center named for the daughter of famous Clevelander John D. Rockefeller. The Murray Hill Galleries is a shop housing artwork from around the world. The Mayfield District Council Little Italy Museum and Archives is an Italian historical museum, offering glimpses into the nation's past.

Ohio City

A little-known fact about this ethnically diverse area is that it once nearly went to war with Cleveland over the Cuyahoga River. The so-called "Battle of the Bridge" was settled, and the two sides eventually made peace. Ohio City has since become an integral part of the city, if not Cleveland's most charming and historical district. Birthplace of football legend John Heismann, Ohio City also hosts the Market Square District as well as the West Side Market, both in the range of a century old and both always crowded with visitors. Ohio City is barely five square miles. However, it is home to at least 15 ethnic groups among its 25,000 people. Ohio City is also home to Parker's Restaurant, which is one of Cleveland's finest eateries. Traci's Restaurant is a bit less expensive, but still offers fine fare. The Great Lakes Brewing Co. features home brews and fine foods and is one of the more popular places for locals to gather.

Tremont

If there is such thing as a south side of Cleveland (and it is only "if" because with the suburban sprawl going on it seems as if the southern border is ever-changing), it is Tremont. Located about five miles from Lake Erie, directly south of downtown, Tremont is an amalgamation of Mediterranean ethnic groups, with an emphasis on Greek. The Tremont area treats you to some of the best views of downtown Cleveland and the Flats area. You will also enjoy Lincoln Park, with its famed Bathhouse, which has been remodeled into condominiums. The ultimate Tremont dining experience comes in the form of Sokolowski's University Inn, while Dempsey's Oasis Tavern and the Lincoln Park Pub are cornerstones of a burgeoning Tremont night scene.

The East Side and West Side

Such "new" suburbs as Westlake, Rocky River, Bay Village, Strongsville and Middleburg Heights represent a good chunk of the population that left Cleveland but did not go very far. This booming area continues to grow, with the sprawl continuing as far west as Vermilion and beyond and as far south as Medina. The recent TV show "The Heights" may as well have been about Cleveland's east suburbs. Cleveland Heights, Shaker Heights, Newburg Heights, Maple Heights, Cuyahoga Heights and Garfield Heights highlight an area of ethnically diverse communities. Newer "burbs" such as Solon, Brecksville and Sagamore Hills bridge the gap between Cleveland and Akron, which sits about 25 miles to the south. Travel east or west from downtown and you will find the signs of urban flight: strip malls, fast food stores and every other chain retailer imaginable.