Introduction

As a harbor city located in the far north of Germany, Hamburg has been known for centuries as the "gateway to the world." One of Hamburg's most famous sons, novelist Wolfgang Borchert, lovingly described the city as "more than a heap of stones, roofs, windows, beds, roads, bridges and street lamps. It is more than factory chimneys and traffic jams—more than the screeching of seagulls, squeaking of trams and thundering of the railway—it is more than ships' horns, whirling cranes, curses and dance music—oh, it is so much more!" Even writer Heinrich Heine, who did not always sing Hamburg's praises, returned again and again, just as many visitors do. Hamburg has an air about it: on the one hand, it is a busy and bustling metropolis; on the other, an elegant and cozy seaside idyll. Whatever your impression may be, you'll never get tired of Hamburg!

The City Center The city center, which lies between the Außenalster Lake and the Elbe, sets the pace for the rest of the city commercially, politically and socially. Its magnificent boulevards are lined with shops—you would never guess that most of the area lay devastated at the end of World War II. Those in search of culture need look no further: the Hamburger Kunsthalle und Galerie der Gegenwart, Hamburgische Staatsoper & Ballettcompagnie John Neumeier and the two main theaters (the Thalia Theater and the Deutsches Schauspielhaus Hamburg) are here, as too are the Stock Exchange and the extravagant Town Hall.

Altstadt The Altstadt(old town) contains many of the city's most historic buildings, including the 9th century Hammaburg, and Hamburg's major churches: St. Michaelis, St. Katharinen, St. Jacobi, St. Petri Kirche and the ruins of Nikolaikirche.

Kontorhaus Quarter The historic Laeiszhof und Globushof (commercial buildings) that lie between Steinstraße and Meßberg are architectural rarities. Indeed, the Kontorhaus Quarter is a different world: the narrow streets around Burchhard-Platz are lined with enormous red-brick buildings such as Chilehaus and Sprinkenhof. Despite their size, these buildings are not over-imposing, but are proud, solid and dignified. They stand in ordered rows and give this district its distinctive feel.

Pöseldorf/Harvestude The upmarket Pöseldorf/Harvestude district lies on the Outer Alster's western shore. Dominated by rows of late-19th-century townhouses and ornate, neo-classical mansions, this area is a favorite of young professionals. Everything is extremely trendy, which has led to the district being christened "Schnöseldorf" ("Little Snot's Town") by locals. Harvestuder Weg, home to many foreign consulates and company headquarters, is one of the city's most sought-after addresses, while Alsteruferweg is perfect for a relaxing stroll.

Universitätsviertel The University Quarter lies to the west of Rothenbaumchausee. As you may expect, this is an exciting part of town with plenty going on. Most of the people who hang out in the bars, cafes and clubs are either students or media types. Hamburg University's main building is located on Edmund-Siemers-Allee, and if you venture westward from there, you get to the Grindel-Hochhäuser (Grindel Tower Blocks), built in 1924-28.

Eppendorf Eppendorf is another popular residential area. The streets are lined with elegant turn-of-the-century townhouses, and many small rivers flow through the district. Be sure to visit the Isemarkt, located under the viaduct on Isestraße. Eppendorf's market square contains a memorial to writer Wolfgang Borchert. Inscribed with the words of his poem Say No!, the memorial reflects his deeply-held anti-war beliefs.

Altona This former autonomous Danish city was annexed by the Nazis in 1937. The most heavily-populated part of Hamburg, it is a multicultural working-class neighborhood. Architecture junkies will love the "Kontorhäuser," the renovated factories, the imposing classical Palmaille and the exquisite villas on Elbchaussee. The Altonaer Rathaus is built in the typical style of the Wilhelmenian era (1888-1918).

Blankenese Lined with ancient trees and ornate villas, the 10km-long Elbchausee has been described as the "most beautiful street in the world" and leads the way from Altona to the exclusive district of Blankenese. Famous for its white fishing huts, historic country residences, parks, gardens, views of the River Elbe and its winding paths and narrow stairways, this is a favorite haunt for locals and visitors alike.

Schanzenviertel/Karolinenviertel You may be forgiven for thinking that time has passed by the Schanzenviertel and the Karolinenviertel. These two districts are extremely multicultural and are great for people-watching. Their numerous watering-holes, tea rooms and ethnic shops make them a perfect place to visit night or day. Yet the fact that they have been "discovered" means that their original character is struggling to survive.

St. Pauli Hamburg's notorious red-light district is the liveliest and most vibrant part of town and the 30,000 people who live here are an eclectic mix of young and old. The legendary Reeperbahn runs the length of the district and is lined with clubs, sex shops, fast food joints and bars as far as the eye can see. If you explore the side streets, you may be in for a surprise! Located at the eastern end of the Reeperbahn is the Heiligengeistfeld. St. Pauli stretches from the Wallanlagen (Planten un Blomen) to Hafenstraße and the Landungsbrücken.

Harbor The Harbor is the heart of the city. Visit it and you will soon find out why Hamburg is known as the "gateway to the world." It is one of the world's largest harbors and its 75 square kilometers make up over one-tenth of the city's entire area. Especially worth seeing are the Köhlbrandtbrücke, the Landungsbrücken, Alter Elbtunnel and the Speicherstadt.

Whatever you choose to do in Hamburg, even if it's simply taking a walk in one of the city's many parks and gardens (Hamburg is Germany's greenest city), you are guaranteed to enjoy yourself!