Introduction

Located at the extreme south-western corner of Switzerland, Geneva is surrounded by French territory. Its location, on the banks of Lake Leman between the Alps and the Jura mountains, provides a dramatic landscape and allows easy access to ski runs, vineyards, spas, and historic towns. Geneva is compact and easily explored on foot. It is also exceptionally green, with a great number of parks and walkways in and around the city center.

Mark Twain visited Geneva so often towards the end of the 19th Century that American literary magazines began to fear he had taken up residence. The writer was certainly intrigued by the Old City's labyrinth of narrow, angular streets, finding the Reformist-named Rue d'Enfer, and Rue du Purgatoire (Hell and Purgatory streets) particularly curious.

City Center

The geographic feature dominating the city is, of course, Lake Leman. This immense body of fresh water is the largest and bluest of all the lakes in Switzerland. Locals may be tolerant if you refer to it as "Lake Geneva," but if you are planning a day trip to Lausanne or Evian, remember that Geneva is not the only city bordering the lake! The arrival of warm weather in the city heralds the opening of lakeside terraces and beaches, the most well known being the Bains de Pâquis – which is well set up for swimmers and cafe habitues. Viewing the cityscape by boat is highly recommended as stunning views of the Jet d'Eau and the Savoy mountains are to be beheld.

It is difficult to isolate one point as being the city center. Historically, the Place du Bourg de Four in the Old City would have been the main focus. From a practical point of view it is tempting to bestow this honor on the building on the Pont-de-la-Machine, which traverses the Rue du Rhône, between the left and right banks of the lake. Housed here is a branch of Geneva's tourist information center. Free city maps and brochures can be picked up here or in the main office, located in the Central Post Office on the Rue du Mont-Blanc.

From Cornavin towards Bel-Air, the Rive Droite has a high concentration of shops, hotels and restaurants. Always teeming with locals and tourists, the Placette is a popular supermarket and department store run by the Manor group. Placette's bakery is excellent and the shop also has a cafe on the top floor in addition to self-service restaurants at street level.

Old City

A meeting place since Roman times, the Bourg-de-Four is at the heart of the Old City. The square, in reality more like a multi-leveled spiral, is dominated by cafe terraces, one being La Clemence next to the 18th-century fountain, book and antique shops and a very low-key police station.

Among the notable sights in the area is the Cathedrale St-Pierre. More important for its role in history (Calvin preached here) than its aesthetic beauty, the Cathedral comprises a miscellany of pieces tacked on through the centuries. Archaeologists have discovered the ruins of a Roman temple (350 CE) near the foundations of the Cathedral and the dig site is open to the public. For a superb view of the city, the North tower can be climbed for a small charge.

Maison Tavel, at 6, rue Puits-de-St-Pierre, is the oldest house in Geneva. Now a city-owned museum, the multi-story house exhibits objects from Geneva's past, with rooms decorated in period style. Another museum in this area, the Musee Barbier-Müller, holds a stunning collection of non-European artwork.

Although it might be impossible to park a car in the old city, there is no problem finding a seat at the Promenade de la Treille. The 126-meter (413-foot) long wooden bench located there is the longest in the world. In addition, chestnut trees blossoming in this delightful square traditionally signal the start of spring.

The tramway-lined shopping-area a block from the Rue du Rhône and just below the old city is pretty much Geneva's main shopping street. Confusingly, this thoroughfare changes names every few hundred meters, from the Rue de la Confederation, near Bel-Air, to the Rue de Rive, which marks a border with the Eaux-Vives. Large department stores such as Globus and EPA are situated here, along with fashion chains such as H&M. Fast-food outlets and street-entertainment are also plentiful.

Les Pâquis

Combining exotic and erotic delights, the Pâquis Quarter is the closest Geneva has to a Bohemian neighborhood. Behind the glittering lakeside façades of the city's most resplendent right bank hotels, less alluring enterprises offer tawdry cabarets and sex products. The area was once used for grazing cows, but is now inhabited by an increasing number of boutiques selling original art, clothes and jewelry. Food-wise, the range of cafes and restaurants in the Pâquis cannot be surpassed in the city. Ethnic restaurant highlights include Jeck's Place (Singaporean/Malaysian), Le Comptoir (Japanese/international) and Amir Beyrouth (Lebanese).

Les Eaux-Vives

Across the lake from the pulsating Pâquis, the Eaux-Vives is a bubbly area that lives up to the English translation of its name. Italian restaurants (Da Paolo and Vesuvio come recommended) are abundant here. Small boutiques are dotted along the Rue des Eaux-Vives and side streets leading to the lake. An independent cinema, Les Scala, shows films in original versions on its three screens. The magnificent Parc des Eaux-Vives and La Grange comprises a huge expanse of green, the latter also features Roman ruins and an extensive rose-garden.

Carouge

Located a few kilometers from the center of the city, Carouge has a distinctly different atmosphere from the rest of Geneva. Perhaps because, technically, the town is outside the city's jurisdiction, although part of the same Canton. Now home to fashionable artisans, boutiques and restaurants, Carouge is remarkably well preserved. Once owned by the King of Sardinia, this area's low-rise, graceful buildings flaunt their Mediterranean influences. Restaurant highlights include L'Ange des Dix Vins and the Cafe des Negociants. Le Chat Noir is a hip live music venue and late-night bar.

Cologny

Known by some as the "Beverly Hills" of Geneva, Cologny is worth visiting for spectacular views over the lake. Many large estates are situated here, the most famous of which is the Villa Diodati on the chemin de Ruth. Byron stayed here during the summer of 1816, writing and touring the lake region with Percy Bysshe Shelley and Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley. The idea for the novel Frankenstein came to Mary Shelley in a dream at the villa, after an evening of violent storms on the lake.