Not to miss

Presidential Palace

Formerly the Bishops' Palace, the Presidential Palace was rebuilt in classical Russian Empire style early in the 19th century. It was used by Napoleon during his advance on Moscow, and by his Russian adversary General Kutuzov when he was chasing Napoleon back to Paris. Book guided tours (in Lithuanian) in advance and bring your passport to get in.

Vilnius Cathedral

At the base of Gediminas Hill sprawls Cathedral Square (Katedros aikštė), dominated by Vilnius Cathedral and its 57m-tall belfry, a Vilnius landmark. The square buzzes with local life, especially during Sunday morning mass. Amuse yourself by hunting for the secret stebuklas (miracle) tile, which if found can grant a wish if you stand on it and turn around clockwise. It marks the spot where the Tallinn-Vilnius human chain ended in 1989.

Vilnius' age-old meeting point, Cathedral Square buzzes with local life. To make your dreams come true, find the tile marked stebuklas (miracle). It marks the spot where the human chain - formed between Tallinn and Vilnius by two million Lithuanians to protest Soviet occupation in 1989 - ended.

To make a wish, do a clockwise 360-degree turn on the tile. Superstition forbids the location of the tile to be revealed, meaning you have to search for it yourself.

At the square's eastern end is an equestrian statue of Gediminas, built on an ancient pagan site.

Gediminas Hill

Vilnius was founded on 48m-high Gediminas Hill, topped since the 13th century by Gedimino Tower. Its walls were ruined during the Russian occupation (1655-61), but it was restored in 1930 to house the Upper Castle Museum.

The Renaissance ushered in the Royal Palace (Valdovūrumai), where the first Lithuanian operas were performed.

A quadrangle of four wings enclosing a vast courtyard of 10,000 sq m, the palace buzzed with masked balls, banquets and tournaments in the 16th century. But in 1795 with the Russian occupation of Lithuania the palace - along with the Lower Castle and city defence wall - was demolished.

Currently being rebuilt, red brick by red brick, this palace of incredible dimensions will rise from the ashes on 6 July 2009 to mark the millennium anniversary of the first mention of Lithuania in writing.

Until then, construction site visits can be arranged with the janitor in the Gates of the Royal Palace pavilion on Katedros Aikštė. Negotiate a price and time (usually 18:30 after he's finished work) and he'll take you on a 90 minute tour - all totally unofficial despite the yellow hard hats provided!