Not to miss

Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore

This mighty church, built mainly in the 12th century in honour of the city's patron saint, is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. Look out for remarkable frescoes, the magnificent rose window depicting the Wheel of Fortune, and the interior's pièce de résistance - Mantegna's Maestà della Vergine (The Majesty of the Virgin Mary), above the high altar.

Inside you pass by the graceful cloister into the church proper. It is a feast for the eyes, with an array of striking frescoes still in place - they range from the 12th to the 15th century. Approach those on the right after the steps that lead past the crypt and have a close look. They are festooned with graffiti, some dating as far back as 1390 and one to…1998! Down in the crypt the robed remains of St Zeno are eerily lit up in his transparent sarcophagus. Artistically, the highlight is Mantegna's Maestà della vergine (The Majesty of the Virgin Mary), above the high altar.

Castelvecchio

The 14th-century fortress, Castelvecchio was raised by Cangrande II (of the Scaligeri family), little loved by the townspeople and anxious to protect himself against threats from home and abroad. Having gone to all that trouble, he was stabbed to death by his charming brother Canfrancesco inside the fortress walls. The restored fortress houses a museum with a diverse collection of paintings, frescoes, jewellery and medieval artefacts.

Among the paintings are works by Pisanello, Giovanni Bellini, Tiepolo, Carpaccio and Veronese. Also of note is a 14th-century equestrian statue of Cangrande I, the fortress-builder's ancestor and most illustrious of the Della Scala clan. The Ponte Scaligero spanning the River Adige was rebuilt after being destroyed by WWII bombing.

Arche Scaligere

Walk through the archway at the far end of Piazza dei Signori to these ornate Gothic funerary monuments, the elaborate tombs of the Della Scala family, in front of the little Santa Maria Antica church. In the courtyard behind the Arche, have a look at the scavi (excavation work) that's been done on this part of medieval Verona.