Getting there & Getting around

Getting there

Israel's main gateway is the ultramodern Ben-Gurion airport (TLV, www.ben-gurion-airport.co.il), 20km (12mi) southeast of Tel Aviv and 50km (30mi) west of Jerusalem. There are plenty of flights to Israel, including non-stop flights from the USA, Europe, South Africa and the Far East. Airport security is tight, especially on national carrier El Al, and international travellers should check in at least three hours before their flight.

Israel's only viable border crossing with Egypt is at Taba, near Eilat. You will need to pay a fee to leave Israel and one to enter Egypt; pick up your Egyptian visa at the consulate in Eilat before heading for the border. If you are only visiting the Sinai you can pick up a Sinai-only permit at the Taba crossing.

If you are trying to get to Cairo in a hurry, the best way is Mazada Tours' (www.mazada.co.il) direct bus service between Tel Aviv or Jerusalem and Cairo - just make sure you have your Egyptian visa before you go.

Israel's frontier with Jordan has three crossing points: the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge crossing (30km/18.5mi from Jerusalem, 40km/25mi from Amman), the Jordan River crossing (6km/4mi east of Beit She' an in Galilee) and the Yitzhak Rabin crossing near Eilat. You will need to get your visa (from the Jordanian embassy in Tel Aviv) prior to crossing into Jordan at the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge. At the other crossings you can purchase your visa directly at the border.

Buses to Jordan from Israel run via Haifa and Nazareth, or Tel Aviv and Nazareth to Amman. All run via the the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge.

If you're driving between Jordan and Israel use either Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba or Jordan River Crossing/Sheikh Hussein Bridge. It is not permitted to cross the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge in your own vehicle.

The ferry link between Cyprus and Haifa is currently suspended.

These arrangements may change so please double-check with consulates and transport providers before you depart.

Getting around

Israel is so small that it would be silly to fly, but if you must there are flights between Haifa and Eilat and Tel Aviv and Eilat. The national bus service, Egged, has an extensive route system in Israel, partially due to the fact that it's also the major transport vehicle for soldiers moving about the country. Egged buses are modern, clean and equipped with air-con, making travel safe and comfortable. Remember that on Shabbat, Egged intercity buses don't run at all (Friday afternoon to Saturday evening). Arab buses, though older and slower than their Israeli counterparts, provide service between East Jerusalem and destinations in the West Bank. Israel State Railways runs a convenient, efficient and inexpensive network of passenger rail services. The main line runs along the coast, from Nahariya to Ashkelon, with spurs to Be'er Sheva and Dimona, Rishon LeZion and Rehovot, Ben-Gurion airport and Jerusalem. Share taxis, or sheruts, are one of the most popular forms of transport, particularly because they run on Shabbat. These 13-seat minivans, which depart from taxi ranks, operate on a fixed route for a fixed price like a bus and many run 24/7. Hiring a car is a great way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. It doesn't make much sense to have one in Jerusalem or other big cities, but it's definitely a good idea for the Golan, Upper Galilee and Negev areas. Note that Tel Aviv has a serious parking shortage and you'll probably end up having to park in a private lot.

Visa information

Everyone needs a passport valid for at least six months, but unless you are a citizen of most African or some Central American countries, India, Singapore or some ex-Soviet republics, you do not need a visa to enter Israel. Tourists are allowed stays of up to 90 days. This visa can be extended for a fee at Ministry of the Interior offices, located throughout Israel's larger cities and towns. However, when crossing a land border customs might ask how long you intend to stay and what you state is generally what you'll get. If there is a chance you'll stay longer than your intended departure date you might as well ask for the full 90 days. You will be given a duplicate entry permit on arrival. Do not lose this very losable piece of paper!

The main hassle with visiting Israel is avoiding having your passport stamped - most Arab countries will not allow you to enter if you have visited Israel. You won't get into Syria, Lebanon, Iran, Saudi Arabia, Libya or Yemen with an Israeli stamp. In Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt, Turkey or Jordan they don't care and in Bahrain, Qatar, the UAE and Oman, a little discretion should get you through. The best thing you can do is ask the officials to stamp your entry permit rather than your passport, or put Israel at the end of your Middle Eastern tour.