History

Recent History

As one of Morocco's most traditional cities, Fez is generally regarded with a certain amount of awe, perhaps tinged with jealousy, by the rest of the country. Indeed, a disproportionate share of Morocco's intellectual and economic elite hail from here and it's a widely held belief (especially among Fassis) that anyone born in Fez medina is more religious, cultured, artistic and refined.

Fassi womenfolk, also considered to be the country's most elegant and its most gifted cooks, are much sought after as wives. When the news came out that Mohammed VI's new bride was from Fez, the locals were not in the least surprised.

Modern Day History

During the 19th century, as central power crumbled and European interference increased, the distinction between Marrakesh and Fez diminished with both effectively serving as capitals of a fragmented country. Fez retained its status as the 'moral' capital.

Enter the French. In 1912 Sultan Moulay Hafid signed the Treaty of Fès which gave the French the right to defend Morocco. Subduing the city took a while, and they soon realised that Rabat would make a more convenient capital. The French built the Fez Ville Nouvelle in the 1920s and left the medina to itself, a policy that thankfully was followed throughout the country.

While France built towns, roads, dams and railways, and 'pacified' much of the country, they also educated the natives, hoping for allies in the Moroccan middle-class. Fez, however, became a hotbed of nationalism pressing for independence, and it was here that the Istiqlal (Independence) Party was formed in 1943. Within eight years the party had 100,000 members and was strongly supported by Sultan Mohammed V. Riots broke out and forced the French to act, and the sultan was exiled to Madagascar in 1953. More violence erupted and French settlers were at risk; eventually the French had no option but to grant independence to Morocco in 1956 and allow the exiled ruler, now King Mohammed V, to return.

At independence, French settlers returned to France, leaving their large airy villas in the Ville Nouvelle. The Jewish population also left in large numbers; many to Israel, some to France and others just as far as Casablanca. This gave many of the Moroccan elite and middle classes the opportunity to move from the medina and embrace a more modern way of life. Replacing them, rural people came seeking jobs in the city and set up home in the houses of the medina, sometimes several families living in one house.

Pre 20th Century History

In AD 789, Idriss I - who founded Morocco's first imperial dynasty - decided that Oualili (Volubilis) was too small and drew up plans for a grand, new capital. He died before the plans were implemented, however, so credit for the founding of Fez is often awarded to his son, Idriss II, who carried out the will of his father. The memory of Idriss II is perpetuated in his zawiya (religious fraternity based around a shrine) in the heart of Fès el-Bali.

By 809, the city was well established. Its name is believed to come from the Arabic word for 'axe'; one tale relates that a golden pickaxe was unearthed here at the start of construction. The city started as a modest Berber town, but then 8000 families fleeing Al-Andalus settled the east bank of the Oued Fès (Fez River). They were later joined by Arab families from Kairouan (Qayrawan) in modern-day Tunisia, who took over the west bank, creating the Kairaouine quarter. Both brought their own heritages, forming a solid foundation for future religious, cultural and architectural richness. Idriss II's heirs split the kingdom, but Fez continued to enjoy peace and prosperity until the 10th century.

Over the next centuries, the fortunes of Fez rose and fell with the dynasties. Civil war and famine - incited by Berber invasions - were relieved only by the rise of the Almoravids. When that dynasty fell from power around 1154, they fled Fez and destroyed the city walls as they went. Only when the succeeding Almohad dynasty was assured of the Fassis' loyalty were the walls replaced - large sections still date from this period.

Fez continued to be a crucial crossroads, wielding intellectual rather than political influence. With the Kairaouine Mosque and University already well established, it was the centre of learning and culture in an empire stretching from Spain to Senegal. It recovered its political status only much later, with the arrival of the Merenid dynasty around 1250. The archaeological legacy of the Merenids is still evident today - credited with their exquisite medersas (colleges for teaching theology, law, Arabic literature and grammar) as well as the building of the self-contained Fès el-Jdid (New Fez). As the Merenids collapsed, successive battling dynasties were unable to retain power for any notable period, although sultans often resided in Fez in their attempt to maintain control over the north.