Not to miss

Devin Castle

Hardcore castle aficionados will want to don their daypack and head out to Devin Castle, 9km (5.6mi) west of Bratislava. Once the military playground of 9th-century warlord Prince Ratislav, Devin is packed solid with historical intrigue. Bus 29 links Devin with Bratislava's Nový Most bus terminal.

Bratislava Castle

Lording over the west side of the old town, Bratislava Castle dominates the hill above the Danube. The winding ramparts and grounds provide a great vantage point for comparing ancient and communist Bratislava, the barrel-tile roofs of the old town versus the vast concrete housing estates of Petržalka. There are a couple of cafés and craft shops on the grounds.

The castle looks a bit like a four-poster bed, a shape that was well established by the 15th century. During the Turkish occupation of Budapest, this was the seat of Hungarian royalty. A fire devastated the fortress in 1811 and most of what you see today is a reconstruction from the 1950s (bland white interiors and all).

Slovenská Národná Galéria

On the riverfront, the Slovak National Gallery incorporates an 18th-century palace into its unusual 'Stalinist chic' design. Housing the nation's largest combined gallery and museum collection, it is well worth a visit, especially for its fine Gothic and baroque sections. Slovak National Museum is close by.