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Charming Beylerbeyi Square is buzzing with all kinds of fish and kebab restaurants as well as cafes and tea houses. If you come from the south, the first restaurant you'll come across on the back road is Villa Bosphorus. Hidden behind a huge brick wall, this fish restaurant occupies a private little pink-hued villa with a square of its own overlooking the water. Wrought iron tables and chairs are scattered about a lush garden terrace shaded by weeping willows and bougainvillea vines. Fish dominates the menu, followed by lamb and chicken. The oven-baked helva here is famous.
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Istanbul is such a diverse city that it's almost impossible to split it up into definable districts. The only real distinction that can be made is between the European and Asian sides, which are separated by the Bosphorus Strait. Stretching from the Black Sea, straddling across the Bosphorus, …