Restaurants and Bars

Tampere pub and restaurant scene underwent a metamorphosis in the 1990s - spearheaded by the Irish-style pubs and American-style saloons, a legion of ethnically oriented establishments brought a world of new styles and tastes to a somewhat stagnant and archaic scene. Dublinin Ovet (Doors of Dublin) and O'Connell's Irish Bar are perfect examples of the Irish influence, which in recent years seems to have taken the whole world by surprise, and not only with pubs either. The American influence on the other hand is evident in places like Crazy Horse, and recently, Colorado, the official Native American/Cowboy-bar. With their giddy decorations and John Wayne memorabilia these establishments are in a sense more American than their counterparts across the Atlantic—it is a well-known fact that in order to be successful in celebrating a foreign culture overkill is critical. Finns seem to have taken this to heart; we are no strangers to the American Way, or the Pie, for that matter.

In addition to the Irish and the American, there are the weird, in other words, the establishments that no one knows where they are coming from and what they are trying to say—they, too, are remnants of the 90s change. Europa is one of these hybrids that seem to absorb every influence there is and consequently leave the helpless customers to make sense of it on their own, as if to suggest that cerebral gymnastics is a legitimate way to spend an evening on the premises. So, peculiarity is commonplace, even required. The scene is in a constant flux, as it is everywhere these days, and the most interesting factor in it is that we have no idea about the trend that will hurl us into a delirium next. We must keep on changing with the times, if only to divert a consciousness that we might be wrong. Indeed, we must avert these questions, for the simple reason that weirdness is becoming of us; in fact, it is an achievement in its own right. Places such as Ale Pub Pikajuna are definitely on the dark side of something, although they can hardly be called melting pots of cultural influences. Paapan Kapakka, a live jazz pub, is a melting pot of ideas, and definitely fits the description of an unusual experience. These examples are proof enough that cultural diversity and weirdness are still synonymous among the general population. This may well be the case but as places like Cupola, a shameless epicentre of student dissoluteness, keep on pushing the envelope of strangeness every single night, there is no telling how we will end up defining these terms in a few years time.

The change of the 90s does not suggest that the authentic Finnish atmosphere had died in the process—the majority of pubs and bars in Tampere still retain their roots and remain popular by applying foreign influences. Kehräsaariis maybe the best place to start an evening, if you are looking for something out of the ordinary in connection to pubs. Fall's Cafe & Terrace should please anyone who thinks there is more to pubs than the bluish smoke clouds, dim lit corners and one-track minded middle-aged customers who haven't changed their drinking habits since 1975 (not that returning to the same pint night after night was necessarily a negative thing, it is just that many of us appreciate a little variety from time to time). The same goes for Teerenpeli, a restaurant/bar on the main street, Hämeenkatu: If a little variety suits your whims then this is just what the doctor ordered—the place even has its own whiskey, not to mention beers and ciders.

There are also many what I like to call generic pubs in Tampere. These establishments do not apply any specific ethnicity or theme to create an atmosphere. Wanha Posti, and the newcomer, Wictor, are excellent examples of the bare basics line of thinking in which pubs are pubs and the only thing that counts is how many different sorts of beers the bar can boast—this can become a bit tedious at times, especially for men of strong passions and weak wills. On top of everything else, there are the traditional pubs and bars. Establishments such as Vanha Monttu, Ellun Kana and Kaupungin Valot are a living proof of the vitality of the native scene that couldn't, or wouldn't, change even if its life depended on it—which is only so much the better. All three are perfect choices for those who want to know where it all started in Tampere.

The restaurant business probably gained the most from the invasion in the 90s. While Finns have long traditions in everything connected to alcohol—for better or worse—our traditions in the field of culinary expertise have never quite reached the same popularity. We do have our own traditions and specialities but, aside from a few such as Carelian roast or lihapullat (meat balls), we tend to eat most of them only on special occasions and dates, like for example on Christmas, Easter and May Day. Due to this, we have applied other cultures' cuisines and traditions to fit our every day eating habits. Italian-style cooking, in the form of pizzas and different kinds of pasta, is hardly a mystery to anyone living in this country. Small pizzerias can be found almost anywhere in Tampere—what comes to Italian-style restaurants, Rosso Koskipuisto is definitely worth a visit. Also, places like Natalie, a Slavonic-style restaurant, conveniently in close proximity to the Lenin-Museo, Viikinkiravintola Harald, a curious Viking restaurant and Memphis East, an American a la carte bar, have proven their suitability to prevailing conditions.

Today, restaurants like China Town, or Thai Na Khon can hardly be considered as curiosities but as a natural continuum for different cultures and tastes getting ever closer to one another. Still, there are restaurants in Tampere that offer typical local specialities. One of these is Tillikka, a restaurant/bar that has become a landmark for its 90 years of existence—aside from dining, drinking has always been a popular pastime here. Also, the brewery restaurant/pub Plevna in the old Finlayson building will satisfy those curious about local, as well as international, cuisine.

However for those who are looking for something different—a cosy, rosy atmosphere maybe, with delicious smells filling the air, there is one place to recommend: Vohvelikahvila (Waffle Cafe). This place is sure to evoke some sweet childhood memories. And those brave or foolhardy enough should definitely try the traditional delicacy, mustamakkara (black sausage), only available fresh in Tampere.

While the variety may not reach the level of bigger cities, finding a place to satisfy your culinary cravings shouldn't pose problems in Tampere. When it comes to drinking however, the city is up there with the best of them—it is safe to say that it is next to impossible to fancy a drink or an atmosphere and not be able to find it in this city. In summary, things are looking up: Every year the population grows—students, especially, seem to find the atmosphere agreeable, and that is usually a sign of something happening. All things considered, it is a beginning of an interesting millennium.