Medieval Tour
In medieval Zaragoza, 1118 is a watershed year, the date when King Alfonso I of Aragón won back the city from the Muslims. Before the Reconquest, the name of the Moorish city was Saraqusta (also known as Medina Albayda), and was a city of three cultures (Christian, Muslim and Jewish) which blossomed in the 11th century. From this period, only a few remains can still be found in the Aljafería Palace, where we will start our tour.
Let's start in the Aljafería. Imagine that the surrounding area was filled with gardens, orchards and canals. The palace was originally a summer residence of King Abu Yafar al-Muqtadir. It was influenced by the Syrian-Omeya palaces of the desert. There was an open courtyard surrounded by arches and a small mosque, which is still standing. The rest of the current palace is Christian: Pedro IV's palace (14th century) and the Catholic Monarchs' palace (15th century). In Christian times the Aljafería became the royal residence, and the sumptuous palace of the Catholic Monarchs is remarkable.
From the Aljafería follow Calle San Pablo as far as the church of San Pablo, and stop to admire its octogonal tower from the 14th century (although the upper part was added in the 17th century). The interior has three aisles and a striking wooden altarpiece by Damian Forment (1515).
Continue along Calle San Pablo through the medieval city as far as Mercado Central, formerly the Plaza del Mercado (market square). Crossing the market and reaching the Roman walls by the River Ebro, you can see the Zuda Tower, built on one of the towers of the wall. It was the royal residence until the 13th century.
From here, cross Plaza del Pilar as far as the very end, where La Seo Cathedral stands, originally built in Romanesque style (one part of the apse is preserved) and later enlarged (14th century) in Gothic and Mudejar styles (the Mudejar wall outside is impressive). There were later enlargements (16th, 17th and 18th centuries). Behind La Seo Cathedral stands the House and Arch of the Dean (13th century), but the present building was restored in the 16th century.
Crossing Calle San Vicente de Paul and following Calle Mayor, you end up at Magdalena Church (14th century), which has a beautiful Mudejar tower similar to the ones in Teruel.
Renaissance Tour
Zaragoza blossomed in the 16th century. It had 25000 inhabitants and was the fourth largest city in Spain. Several three-storey palaces from this period are preserved. On the ground floor was the patio around which the rooms were built. The patio had two storeys, the lower having columns and the upper, arches. On the ground floor were the kitchen and the servants' rooms, and on the upper floor were halls and rooms.
Start the tour in Plaze Pilar, at the Lonja (16th century), which was the stock market for traders. It has three storeys outside, but inside only one. Inside make sure to check out Charles V´s coat of arms with the golden fleece.
From here, go to nearby Calle Dormer where there are two palaces dating back to the 16th century: Casa Huarte and Casa Miguel Donlope, which have interesting façades. The balconies were added in the 17th century (in the 16th century balconies were unusual).
From Calle Dormer, crossing Calle Don Jaime I, follow Calle Espoz y Mina past Aguilar Palace, which currently houses the Camón Aznar Museum. This palace has a beautiful patio, dates back to the 16th century, and is a copy of the palace of Gabriel Zaporta, now no longer standing.
Then take Calle Alfonso I, crossing it and coming to Plaza San Felipe, where the Palace of Argillo stands. Although this palace is from the 17th century, its style is quite 16th century. It currently houses the Pablo Gargallo Museum.
From Plaza San Felipe follow Calle Alfonso I as far as Calle Coso. This was the nobility's preferred location for palaces in the 16th century. You can see two of them: Morata Palace, which has two giants at the door (Hercules and Teseus), and Sastago Palace, which now is used for exhibitions.
Following Paseo de la Independencia (Independencia Avenue) you reach a plateresque porch by Gil Morlanes at the end on the left, in Santa Engracia Church, the only remaining part of the monastery built in the 16th century. To finish the tour go to Ibercaja bank. Inside it you can find Patio of the Infanta, considered the best Renaissance Patio in Zaragoza and copied in many subsequent buildings.
Plaza Pilar Park Tour
We start this tour in Plaza del Pilar—also known as Plaza Cathedral—which is one of the largest squares in Europe. Following Calle Alfonso I as far as Calle Coso and then turning left, you reach Plaza España. This is the centre of the city. From here head south along the main avenues, which are tree-lined and quite pleasant.
Follow Paseo de la Independencia, the city's main avenue and the shopping and banking area, as far as Plaza Paraíso, an important crossroads. Crossing this square after admiring the façade of the Old Medical and Science Faculty and its impressive stairs, seated statues and medallions, walk up Gran Vía, which has a pedestrian section and is flanked by plane trees. Gran Vía continues along the River Huerva, a tributary of the Ebro, which is visible to the left. Crossing Goya Avenue, continue along the prolongation of Gran Vía, Avenida Fernando el Católico. This avenue has a central pedestrian section and is also flanked by plane trees. Plaza San Francisco, in the middle of the avenue, has a monument commemorating King Fernando II. On the right is the university campus. All around Plaza San Francisco are benches inviting you to sit and rest, but continue walking as far as the end of the avenue.
A new square is now ahead, but turn left and stroll into Primo de Rivera Park, the largest in the city. There is a short circuit of about 1.5k in length, which is where a small train runs and where most joggers do their thing. It runs round the botanical garden and returns along Avenida San Sebastian amongst fountains, hedges, trees and flowerbeds.
This tour is very pleasant to walk and takes more or less an hour; for those who want it to last longer, there are a lot of benches on the way and still more important perhaps: many street cafes.
322km (200 miles) NE of Madrid, 306km (190 miles) W…
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