Not to miss

Kafue National Park

This vast park is Zambia's largest, home to grassland plains stretching for hundreds of kilometres, forests lining the banks of the Kafue River, and critters big and small everywhere you look. All of this makes Kafue prime safari territory.

Among the species on show are lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos, antelopes, zebras and even ultra-rare yellow-backed duikers. One highlight is the Busanga Plains at the northern end of the park. This 750 sq km (290 sq mi) area floods from March to May.

In the flooding season it becomes a giant bathing ground for thousands of hippos and millions of birds. Another good bird-watching spot is Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, where herons, spoonbills and many other waterbirds roost.

There are a number of places to stay in the park, including camp sites, chalets and lodges. Most are along the Kafue River. The park is about 200km (125mi) west of Lusaka and is accessible by car, though the roads are generally horrible and most visitors who can afford it fly in by chartered plane.

Ngonye (Sioma) Falls

If it weren't for Victoria Falls 300km (185mi) downstream, the Ngonye Falls would be a major attraction. It's a wonderful place that's free of Victoria Falls' tourist trappings. The plunge isn't nearly the same - only fall a few metres - but the broad expanse of the cascade is a magnificent sight.

There's good white-water rafting below the falls. Nearby is Sioma Ngwezi National Park, where you can spot elephants taking a night-time drink. The falls are 600km (370mi) east of Lusaka, and about 200km (125mi) south of the town of Mongu.

South Luangwa National Park

For scenery, variety of animals, accessibility and choice of accommodation, South Luangwa is the best park in Zambia and one of the most majestic in Africa. Amongst the varied terrain of dense woodland, oxbow pools and open grassy plains lurk beasts of all shapes and sizes, from massive elephants to pesky tsetse flies. Take precautions against malaria.

South Luangwa is where walking safaris (Jun-Sep) began. Being in the park, on foot, with the wildlife all around, is a truly exhilarating experience. Despite its many charms, South Luangwa attracts far fewer visitors than other African parks, especially during the wet season, making it all the more attractive. (Note that lots of wild animals in this area makes walking around at night very dangerous.)

Most of park is inaccessible Nov-Apr (especially Feb & Mar), so many lodges close at this time.

Kafue National Park

Covering more than 22,500 sq km (8687 sq mi), this is the largest park in Zambia and one of the biggest in the world. With terrain ranging from the lush riverine forest of the Kafue River to the vast grassland of the Busanga Plains, the park rewards wildlife enthusiasts with glimpses of various carnivores and their nimble prey.

The main road between Lusaka and Mongu runs though the park, dividing it into northern and southern sectors. (You don't pay park fees if you're in transit.) There are several gates, but three main ones: Nalusanga Gate along the eastern boundary, for the northern sector; Musa Gate, near the New Kalala Camp, for the southern sector; and Tatayoyo Gate, for either sector if you're coming from the west.

Rangers are stationed at the two park headquarters: at Chunga Camp and another 8km south of Musa Gate. Some lodges/camps arrange walking safaris, but visitors are not allowed to walk in the park without an armed ranger. Most guests feel safer exploring the park in a 4WD, during a day or night wildlife drive, or by boat.

Victoria Falls

The Victoria Falls are one of the world's most spectacular plunges. The 2km(1.2mi)-wide Zambezi River drops more than 100m (328ft) into a steeply-walled gorge. The Zambian side of Victoria Falls has long played second fiddle to its better-known Zimbabwean counterpart, but trouble next door means Livingstone is positively booming.

For close-up views of the Eastern Cataract, nothing beats the hair-raising (and hair-wetting) walk across the footbridge, through swirling clouds of mist, to a sheer buttress called the Knife Edge. If the water is low and the wind favourable, you'll be treated to a magnificent view of the falls and the yawning abyss below the Zambezi Bridge. Adrenaline junkies can indulge in white-water rafting, abseiling, river-boating, jet-boating, bungee jumping and a host of airborne activities. At certain times of year it is even possible to visit Livingstone Island and swim at the very edge of the Falls, though sadly it's no longer free. Don't get so caught up with activities that you miss one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world.