Not to miss

Punta del Diablo

This little fishing-surfing village of wooden cabins and winding dirt streets is like an anti-Punta del Este, with miles of empty sandy beaches to wander along and no high-rises. The crowd is similarly uncomplicated - more nature-oriented and far less glamorous.

Montevideo

The capital of Uruguay, Montevideo has a sly sophistication and surprising cultural diversity for such a small population, boasting a picturesque blend of colonial Spanish, Italian and Art Deco styles. Many Argentines come here to relax during their summer break and bask on the white sandy beaches.

Montevideo may be the only large city in Uruguay, but it's also one of South America's most interesting centers, if not always its liveliest. Often bypassed by travelers in favor of Buenos Aires, Montevideo has suffered at the hands of its more famous and flamboyant neighbors.

Economic stagnation has left modern Montevideo with a worn-out edge; many of its utilitarian buildings and apartment blocks would not be entirely out of place in Eastern Europe. However, its public spaces are being rejuvenated, especially the Ciudad Vieja, the colonial core that is the city's most intriguing feature. Adventurous travelers are slowly discovering the charms of this little pocket of South America and the city is already seeing a much greater diversity of visitors than the days when it was just a destination for Argentine and Brazilian holiday makers.

Mercado del Puerto

The Mercado del Puerto is a wrought-iron superstructure sheltering a gaggle of restaurants (watch out for the steakhouses - they serve up slabs the size of your head). Saturday lunchtime is a fun time to come - the market is crammed with locals (who use the market to cruise each other) and musicians liven up the area.

Parque Nacional Santa Teresa

More an historical than a natural attraction, this coastal park contains the hilltop Fortaleza de Santa Teresa, begun by the Portuguese but captured and finished by the Spaniards. Santa Teresa is a humble place, but Uruguayan and Brazilian visitors enjoy its uncrowded beaches and decentralized forest camping. The park gets crammed during Carnaval.

Casa Pueblo

Casa Pueblo is an astonishing Mediterranean villa and art gallery at scenic Punta Ballena, a short trip from Punta del Este. The villa was built by Carlos Páez Vilaró entirely without right angles and boasts jaw-dropping views. Visitors can tour five rooms, view a film on the artist's life and the building's creation, or have a drink at the bar.