Not to miss

Nanumea Atoll

The most northerly and most populous of the outer islands, Nanumea was occupied by US forces during WWII. Evidence of their presence exists in the wrecks of several US landing craft and a B-24 bomber. Get permission to climb the tall German Gothic-style tower for a wonderful view of the atoll.

Funafuti

With a population of over 4000, the Tuvaluan capital, Funafuti, remains a pretty low-key town. With no heavy industry and only two manufacturing facilities (textiles and soap), the air remains pure and the pace of life measured. Funafuti is the region's administrative centre.

The island's main village is a ten-minute walk north of the centre, a short stroll further on is the deep-water wharf. The huge lagoon is a visual highlight, but tread carefully as the lagoon beach doubles as a public toilet for some locals. The crowded island has a population density of 1454/sq km.

If you have no access to a private yacht and no patience to wait for other island-hopping options, you can charter a boat to Funafala Island or one of the other uninhabited islets at the south end of the lagoon for a less congested, more unspoilt scene.

Funafala Islet

This beautiful islet has a sandy beach and is good for a day-trip escape or a few days relaxation. Americans relocated villagers here in WWII and while most moved back after the war there is still a very small community here. The more traditional village lifestyle in this remote paradise gives a taste of what the outer islands are like.

Funafuti Marine Conservation Area

If you've ever indulged in a desert-island fantasy, now's your chance to visit one for real. The five islets of the Funafuti Conservation Area are strung in a necklace along the western side of the atoll; all are uninhabited and - with the consent of the landowners - are protected as no fishing, no hunting, no gathering areas.

The islets, varying in size from small to tiny, are fringed with white sand, sport a dense cluster of native forest and palm trees and are alive with the noise and activity of colonies of seabirds; one of the joys of stepping ashore is finding yourself eyeball to eyeball with an exquisite and curious fairy tern hovering in front of you. Green turtles nest on the beaches, and while much of the coral close to shore has suffered from bleaching, it still provides a home for many species of brilliantly coloured reef fish. Until 2005 there were six islets, but an exceptional storm and surge destroyed tiny Tepuka Savilivili, giving an unsettling taste of what might happen to Tuvalu as global warming progresses.

The conservation area, initiated in 1996, covers 33 sq km of lagoon, reef, channel, ocean and island habitats. It's open to visitors for snorkelling, walking, picnicking and bird-watching.

Nanumea Atoll

One of Tuvalu's most beautiful atolls, Nanumea features a fresh-water pond (unusual for atolls) and a large church. It suffered several Japanese attacks during WWII. Plane wrecks and a wrecked cargo ship near the main settlement serve as reminders. Aside from this history there's little to do but relax and enjoy island life.

The only way to reach Nanumea Atoll or any other of Tuvalu's Outer Islands is by government supply ship. The Nivaga II and Manu Folau typically visit each of the outer islands once every three or four weeks.