Not to miss

Zurich

We know what you're thinking, but honestly this is not the boring banking capital it's reputed to be. In fact Zürich is - whisper it softly - surprisingly hip and trendy. Hundreds of new bars, restaurants and clubs have opened since planning laws were changed in the late 1990s and Zürich now hosts Europe's largest annual street party.

Admittedly, the first impression, of a small, clean and orderly metropolis with church steeples above a crystal-blue river and lake, is pleasant rather than exciting. But then you're struck by the happy noise of the cobbled Niederdorfstrasse, on the eastern riverbank, and won over by the hedonism around the lake.

You'll be bowled over by the many galleries. You'll discover the waterside lido bars, the chocolate salons and the hip Züri-West district's shops, restaurants and clubs. A policeman cuts a striking figure on rollerblades (an occasional summertime sight). Bankers ride home on Italian scooters. And by the time you start musing how cool but easy-going and unpretentious this place is, Zürich has converted you.

Geneva

Nope, Geneva is not Switzerland's capital, despite what many think. This chic, sleek, cosmopolitan lakeside city is, in fact, only Switzerland's third-largest city and has an overwhelmingly international feel: 43.4% of the population is from elsewhere.

The city is crowded with museums, has many excellent cultural events and is ideally placed for quick hops to the Swiss and French Alps. Basking in the sunshine of its peaceful setting on Lake Geneva's banks, this acclaimed neutral territory displays an obvious self-confidence. It is in pristine condition, clean, efficient and safe, yet spirited in its style and love of adventure.

Lucerne

'Lucerna' in Italian, 'Luzern' in Swiss-German, 'Lucerne' in French. 'Alpine splendour' in all languages. Lapped by scenic Lake Lucerne and surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains - a picture of this once small fishing village and its striking skyline epitomises the very essence of Switzerland.

Charming Lucerne has an 'Old Town' centre of 15th-century buildings with painted facades, towers, a 17th-century Renaissance town hall, old squares and postcard-perfect medieval bridges adorned with rooftop art. When tour guides in medieval costume appear, Lucerne is occasionally vaguely reminiscent of Venice, but it rarely gets too busy with tourists. There are also some fine art galleries and museums. Northeast of the city centre is the poignant Lion Monument, dedicated to the Swiss soldiers who died in the French Revolution.

Rheinfall

The roar of water, the tang of salt spray and the chatter of hordes of day-trippers announce the presence of Europe's largest waterfalls. The Rhine Falls might not give Niagara much competition in terms of height (23m or 75ft), but it's a stunning sight when you arrive to see people standing on the tall rock in the middle, with the Swiss flag patriotically flying above.

Augusta Raurica

These Roman ruins by the Rhein are Switzerland's largest, and the last remnants of a colony founded in 43 BC that had grown to 20,000 citizens by the 2nd century. Today, restored features include an open-air theatre and several temples, plus the Roman Museum, which features an authentic Roman house among its exhibits.

Swiss National Museum

A great cream cake of a museum, this mammoth but riveting turreted affair built in 1898 is a tough job to digest in one visit: The permanent collection takes visitors on a heady tour of Swiss history while temporary exhibitions entice the curious with a colourful clutch of local subjects such as Hermann Hesse or Swiss archaeology.

Château de Chillon

This extraordinary, oval-shaped castle was brought to the attention of the world by Lord Byron, and the world has been filing past ever since - they say the castle receives more visitors than any other historical building in Switzerland.

Occupying a stunning position on Lake Geneva, the 13th-century fortress is a myriad of courtyards, towers and halls filled with arms, period furniture and artwork. The landward side is heavily fortified but lakeside it presents a gentler face as a princely residence. Chillon was largely built by the House of Savoy and then taken over by Bern's governors after Vaud fell.

Great St Bernard Pass Hospice Museum

Perhaps the Great St Bernard Pass should be renamed the Great Alsation Pass. It might save the local rescue dogs at the local hospice some embarrassment. These days the affable Alsatian breed does the rescuing. The museum explains the importance of the monks' rescue work and religious vocation, which dates back to the 11th century.