Not to miss

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

Mlilwane was the first wildlife sanctuary established in Swaziland, and is privately run. It lies on the border of the high and middle veld and is an important transition zone for flora and fauna. Among the animal species are zebras, giraffes, white rhinos, hippos and crocodiles, the only predators.

More than 200 species of bird can also be found in its boundaries. The sanctuary is dominated by the jagged Nyonyane Peak, where you can complete several bracing walks. You can also rent horses and mountain bikes, or watch the hippos from the Hippo Haunt restaurant.

If you're feeling energetic and don't mind getting a bit wet, white-water rafting is at its best near the reserve on the Great Usutu River. The Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary is only a few kilometres south of Mbabane, and you can get there by taxi or bus from Mbabane.

Lobamba

The heart of the Ezulwini Valley, Swaziland's royal valley, Lobamba is home to the royals' Embo State Palace. You can see the monarchy let loose during the Incwala ceremony and the Uhmlanga dance, which take place at the Royal Kraal in Lobamba.

The National Museum is housed here, and it offers displays on Swazi culture and has a traditional beehive village beside it. Given the size of the Swazi family (King Sobhuza II had 600 children), Swazi kings now live at the Lothiza State House, about 10km (6mi) from Lobamba.

Next to the museum is the parliament, which is sometimes open to the public, and across the road from the museum is the King Sobhuza II Memorial, the most revered (and arguably the most prolific breeder) of the Swazi kings. The Mantenga Falls are worth seeing, although you need to ask for local advice because there have been muggings and other nasty incidents there. Nearby is the Swazi Cultural Village with more authentic beehive huts and cultural displays.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

This lovely sanctuary, near Lobamba, is a private reserve created by Ted Reilly on his family farm in the 1950s. It's dominated by the precipitous Nyonyane (Little Bird) peak, and there are several attractive walks around it. Zebras, giraffes, many antelope species, crocodiles, hippos and a variety of birds can be seen; in summer, you may spot a black eagle.

Activities on offer in the reserve include walking, two-hour vehicle safaris, cycling and day and overnight horse-riding trips.

Malolotja Nature Reserve

This beautiful highveld/middleveld reserve is a true wilderness area, rugged and mostly unspoiled. It's also an excellent walking destination, with a 200km (124mi) network of hiking trails. Budding ornithologists can see over 280 species of birds, including several rare species. Wildflowers and rare plants are added attractions.

Hlane Royal National Park

Hlane Royal National Park is near the former royal hunting grounds. Hlane (the name means 'wilderness') is Swaziland's largest protected area, home to elephants, lions, cheetahs, leopards, white rhinos and many antelope species. The park offers wonderfully low-key wildlife-watching.

There are guided walking trails, which afford the opportunity to see elephants and rhinos, as well as two-hour wildlife day drives, a cultural village tour with dance performances and mountain-bike rentals.