Not to miss

Freetown

Freetown used to have a dirty and decrepit air with very little worth seeing. And then there was a war. Still, it's in a pretty nice setting for a sweaty, tumbledown town - and a town is really what Sierra Leone's capital feels like - however don't be confused into thinking that everything is free.

The effects of war can still be seen and felt yet Freetown has undeniable pep and optimism. It is a friendly place, hot as hell and pretty chaotic (you should see the traffic jams), but close to town are fantastic beaches and many travellers don't even bother leaving the lush mountainous peninsula.

Kabala

At the end of the sealed road about 300km (186mi) from Freetown, lies Kabala, a hill town with the largest settlement in the north. The surrounding hills are criss-crossed with cool streams and waterfalls, making for good and gentle hiking.

Kabala's accommodation options are limited, so limited in fact that there are no options, just a simple guesthouse. From here most travellers plot a course 60km (37mi) southeast to Mt Bintumani in the Loma Mountains Forest Reserve. When the skies are clear, the views from the summit are spectacular.

Mt Bintumani

Loma Mansa, as Sierra Leone's highest peak is also known, rises 1945m (6380ft). In clear weather, views from the summit are excellent. The Loma Mountains Forest Reserve protects the highland rainforest covering the lower slopes. There are several species of monkey here and you have a fair chance of seeing elephants and bongos as you approach the mountain.

In the rivers, you may be lucky enough to see pygmy hippopotamuses, dwarf crocodiles and rufous fishing-owls; all endangered species. Above 1500m (4920ft) the forest gives way to grassland where you can spot baboons, wart hogs, duikers, porcupines and even buffaloes.

The most scenic and wildlife-rich approach to the summit is from the west, either from Kabala via Koinadugu and Firawa or more commonly from Yifin village (from where it's at least a four-day walk), east of the dirt road between Kabala and Bumbuna. The western route from Kurubonla, north of Kono, can be done in two days if you move fast.

Pay your respects to the chief in either Firawa, Yifin or Kurubonla and he'll help you find a guide.

Outamba-Kilimi National Park

This is a beautiful tract of savanna and jungle, with very diverse wildlife: primates such as chimpanzees, colobus monkeys and sooty mangabeys; hippos, bongo antelopes, buffalo, elephants and perhaps even lions can be seen, along with 260 bird species.

The park has two sections. The northern Outamba section consists of rolling hills, grasslands, flood plains and rainforests, dissected by several rivers. The Kilimi section is much flatter and not as interesting. By the park headquarters, there are thatch huts overlooking the Little Scarcies River and guides can be hired to track elephants, visit bird-watching towers, or canoe out to see hippopotami.

Banana Islands

Diving and snorkelling are superb at the Banana Islands, which are off the southeastern tip of the peninsula that Freetown is on. There is some coral and one of the shipwrecks left a pile of Portuguese cannons in shallow water. In Dublin, on the northern tip of the main Banana Island, there are the remains of an 1881 church, and the old slave docks.

Pay your respects to the chief before going off exploring and the locals will happily provide a guide.

The easiest way to get to the Bananas is to hire a local fishing boat at Tokeh Village. It's a two-hour round trip and you should allow at least an hour to explore the ruins in Dublin.