Not to miss

Cetinje

Once the capital of Montenegro, Cetinje sits on a high plateau between the Bay of Kotor and Skadar Lake. When the rest of the region was absorbed by the Ottoman Empire, Montenegro hung on to its independence, primarily because Cetinje was so easy to defend.

The most imposing building in the city is the former palace, now the State Museum. Opposite is the former house of Cetinje's prince-bishop. The Cetinje Monastery, founded in 1484 and rebuilt in 1785, has a treasury of artefacts, including a collection of liturgical songs printed in 1494.

If you feel like a brisk walk, head for Mt Lovcen, 20km away. The mountain is a national park, and at its summit is the mausoleum of Petar II Petrovic Njegos, adorned with a beautiful sculpture of the ruler. Cetinje, with its winding streets and romantic old buildings, is an atmospheric place to spend a few days, but you might have trouble finding somewhere to stay, the availability of private rooms is limited, so it might be worth staying in nearby Bar and daytripping it.

Belgrade

Destroyed 40 times in its 2300-year history, Belgrade has never quite managed to pick up all the pieces and take its place in the European aristocracy. Despite this, the slightly dishevelled air, combined with the city's indefatigable vibrancy lend Belgrade an unpretentious charm and credibility.

Belgrade's bustling centre is the Kneza Mihaila, a cafe-lined pedestrian boulevard that runs northwest through the old town. To its south you'll find the train and bus stations. Belgrade's fort since Celtic times, Kalemegdan Citadel, looms over the old town that was mostly built in the 17th century.

Stari Grad, next to the Citadel, is the oldest part of Belgrade. Have a wander around and take a peek into the city's best museums - you'll find all of them around here. The National Museum is particularly good, with archaeological displays and paintings, or you could check out the Ethnographical Museum, which has an excellent collection of Serbian costumes and folk art. The Gallery of Frescoes has full-size replicas of paintings from remote churches in Serbia and Macedonia. But the real must-see is the Palace of Princess Ljubice, an authentic, fully-furnished Balkan-style palace.

Durmitor National Park

Ice has carved out a dramatic mountain landscape in this national park. Eighteen lakes dot the Durmitor Range, the largest being Crno jezero (Black Lake). Dominating the park is the 2287m (7500ft)-high mass of Međed. The 1.3km (0.81mi) -deep Tara Canyon slits open the earth's crust for 80km (50mi) and is best seen from a rock promontory at Curevac.

Petrovaradin Citadel

Dominating the town of Novi Sad is the mighty Petrovaradin Citadel, a massive piece of work built on a plug of volcanic rock and often referred to as the 'Gibraltar of the Danube'. The chief pleasure of visiting Petrovaradin, built between 1699 and 1780, is simply to walk the walls and enjoy the splendid view.

Manasija Monastery

From the outside this structure defies the concept of a monastery as a place of peace and spirituality. What confronts visitors is a massive block of a fortress, dating from the early 1400s when it was built by a community fleeing the Turkish takeover of Kosovo. The surviving frescoes are patchy, but still startle viewers with their vitality and colour.