Not to miss

Nyungwe Forest

The Nyungwe Forest is a mountainous 378 sq mi (970 sq km) protected rainforest reserve in southern Rwanda. It was established 12 years ago as an ecotourism project that would allow limited access to one of the largest tracts of montane rainforest in Africa.

It also allows for the in-depth scientific study of a forest ecology undisturbed by agriculture or other human developments. Pristine hiking trails in the area expose walkers to enormous hardwood stands, numerous waterfalls and an eye-boggling variety of other flora and fauna.

The main attraction of Nyungwe, however, is the proliferation of black-and-white colobus monkeys - the mammals wander around in large troupes, some of which are made up of over 300 nimble individuals.

Butare

Butare is an even smaller place than Kigali but this is no reflection of its stature - it has been described as the intellectual centre of Rwanda, due to the fact that the National University, National Institute of Scientific Research and National Museum are all sited here.

You'll find plenty in Butare to exercise your mind and your sense of what Rwanda is all about, from presentations of Rwanda's prehistory and ethnic beginnings to vibrant cultural performances. The Musee National du Rwanda is the centrepiece of Butare.

It's a huge and amazing Belgium-donated architectural treat that houses a wide variety of archaeological and ethnographical displays, and which would rank as one of the best museums in the East African region. Not all the exhibits are behind glass or arrayed on pedestals however - the museum is also the facilitator for a traditional Rwandan dance troupe which puts on a spectacular full-costumed and heavy-rhythmed show when it's in town. When you've had your cultural fill, you can indulge in some natural beauty at the tree-lined Arboretum de Ruhande, or browse the local craft shops a few kilometres out of Butare at Gihindamuyaga and Gishamvu.

Parc National Nyungwe Forest

Spectacular Nyungwe Forest covers 970 sq km (374 sq mi) and is one of the largest protected montane rainforests in Africa, easily the equal of Kibale Forest in Uganda. It offers superb views of the volcanoes of the Parc National des Virunga to the north as well as numerous opportunities to view rare primates, including colobus monkeys and chimpanzees.

The forest is home to huge groups of black-and-white Angola colobus monkeys, several groups of chimpanzees, 50 species of other mammals, 270 species of tree, 275 species of bird, and an astonishing variety of orchids and butterflies.

The cost includes guided or unguided walks on any of the colour-coded forest trails and camping at Uwinka. Chimpanzee tracking starts early in the morning, and colobus walks leave at twice daily. There is no law against spotting primates on an ordinary walk, but there is a better chance of sightings on a guided primate walk.

The park headquarters is at Uqinka, where there is an information centre and a small campsite.

Parc National des Volcans

This is the definitive location in Africa to track the rare mountain gorilla and also a great place to track golden monkeys. The national park, which runs along the border between DR Congo and Uganda, is one of the most stunning sights in the region and is home to a chain of seven volcanoes, the highest, Karisimbi, maxes out at more than 4500m (14,764ft)

On the bamboo-and rainforest-covered slopes of the volcanoes are some of the last remaining sanctuaries of the mountain gorilla, which was studied in depth first by George Schaller and, more recently, by Dian Fossey. An encounter with these beautiful creatures, which despite their size are remarkably nonaggressive, is a magical experience that is absolutely worth the stiff price tag.

Bookings for gorilla permits can be made through the ORTPN tourist office in Kigali or a Rwandan tour company. The departure point for all visits is the ORTPN office in Ruhengeri.

The park also offers travellers the chance to trek through the volcanic chain.

Giseny

Welcome to the Costa del Kivu! Gisenyi is a ritzy resort town for rich Rwandans and resident foreigners. The views over Lake Kivu and Nyiragongo to the northwest are magnificent, though be warned that the volcano blew its top in early 2002, consuming much of neighbouring Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Gisenyi is a secluded retreat for the country's well-to-do, which means that most of the action centres on the town's posh hotels and restaurants. If you're looking for something to do however, you can check out the Primus Brewery, about 7km (4.3mi) out of town along a stunning coastal road. Swimming and sunbathing on the area's lovely beaches is also a nice way to spend the day, though be sure to ask locals before plunging in, owing to dangerous pockets of volcanic gases.