Not to miss

Brasov

Surrounded by verdant Transylvanian hills, Brasov is one of Romania's most visited places. The first public opposition to the Ceausescu regime occurred here in 1987, where thousands of workers protested harsh food rationing. Ceausescu's response left three people dead and rations were cut further.

A medieval Saxon town, Brasov's main attraction is the Black Church, said to be the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. Many people use Brasov as a base for visiting nearby attractions, most notably Bran Castle, commonly known as 'Dracula's Castle', 30km (18.6 mi) south of town.

Despite popular myth, the castle has no links with Vlad Tepes, the medeivel prince most often associated with everyone's favorite vampire. And, with its fairytale turrets and whitewashed walls, the castle is not exactly menacing. Less touristy and more dramatic is Rasnov Castle, en route to Bran Castle from Brasov. The ski resorts of Poiana Brasov and Sinaia are also within easy reach by bus or train from Brasov. Plenty of local and international buses and trains stop at Brasov.

Bucarest

Romania's capital lies on the Wallachian plains, between the Carpathian foothills and the Danube River. In the 1930s it was known as 'the Paris of the East'. Since then, earthquakes, WWII bombing and Ceausescu have combined to destroy much of its prewar beauty.

The focal point of what locals dubbed 'Ceausima' is the enormous 12-storey Palace of Parliament, intended to be the largest building in the world (it comes second to the Pentagon). Central Bucharest has some classic beauty, a 16th-century Old Court Church that contains stunning preserved frescoes.

The George Enescu Museum displays the musician's manuscripts and personal belongings. Also here is Romania's very own Raffles, the Athenee Palace Hotel, centre of early-20th-century decadence, which it still upholds to this day. It was also the meeting place of Olivia Manning's characters in The Balkan Trilogy.

In western Bucharest you'll find Ghencea Civil Cemetery, final resting place of the Ceausescus. Nicolae's grave is quite ornate and decorated with flowers and candles, but Elena is apparently less revered by those who still mourn their overthrow. Their son Nicu (Transylvania boss, drunkard, playboy and one-time partner of the Romanian gymnast Nadia Comaneci) is buried close by.

Merry Cemetery

Săpânţa village has a unique place in the hearts of Romanians. It boasts the 'Merry Cemetery', famous for the colourfully painted wooden crosses that adorn the tombstones in the village's graveyard. Shown in art exhibitions across Europe, the crosses attract coachloads of visitors who marvel at the gentle humour and human warmth that created them.

Palace of Parliament

The Palace of Parliament is the world's second largest building (after the US Pentagon). Built in 1984 (and still 10% unfinished), the building's 12 storeys and 3100 rooms covers 330,000 sq metres - an estimated three billion Euro project. Rushed, but interesting, 45 minutes tours go every half hour or so and lead into a handful of marble rooms - still rented out for conferences - finishing at the balcony Nicolae didn't live long enough to speak from.

Muzeul Militar Naţional

Not far from the train station, the pinky-peach National Military Museum doubles nicely as a Romanian history museum. Note in the entry the communist 1988 mural; in back is a superb hangar with Aurel Vlaicu's famed 1911 plane (which Romanians attest made the first 'real' flight).