Not to miss

Franz Kafka Museum

This much-hyped exhibition on the life and work of Prague's most famous literary son opened here in 2005 after three years in Barcelona and three years in New York. Entitled 'City of K', it explores the intimate relationship between the writer and the city that shaped him through the use of original letters, photographs, quotations, period newspapers and publications, and video and sound installations.

Does it vividly portray the claustrophobic bureaucracy and atmosphere of brooding menace that characterised Kafka's world? Or is it a load of pretentious old bollocks? You decide.

Prague Castle

With a magnificent clifftop outlook, a 1000-year-old history going back to a simple walled-in compound in the 9th century, and a breathtaking scale that qualifies it as the biggest ancient castle in the world, Prague Castle is the indisputable centrepiece of the Czech capital. Spend at least half a day in awe here.

Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad, or just Hrad to the Czechs) claims its 'largest' title with the following figures: 570m long, an average of 128m wide and 7.28 hectares of land. The castle has been the seat of Czech government since Prince Bořivoj founded the first fortified settlement here in the 9th century, though president Václav Havel chose to live in his smaller (and less touristy) home on the outskirts of the city. Some of the complex's highlights, like the Spanish Hall and Rudolf Gallery, are only open one Saturday a year (usually in early May). The rest of the castle's collection of architectural and artistic marvels, created over the course of the last millennium, is on display.

Charles Bridge

Strolling across Charles Bridge is everybody's favourite Prague activity. However, by 09:00 it's a 500m-long fairground, with an army of tourists squeezing through a gauntlet of hawkers and buskers, beneath the impassive gaze of the imposing baroque statues that line the parapets (see the boxed text, ). If you want to experience the bridge at its most atmospheric it's best appreciated at dawn.

In 1357 Charles IV commissioned Petr Parler (architect of St Vitus Cathedral) to replace the 12th-century Judith Bridge, which had been washed away by floods in 1342.

The new bridge was completed around 1400, and only took Charles' name in the 19th century - before that it was known simply as Kamenný most (Stone Bridge). Despite occasional flood damage, it withstood wheeled traffic for 600 years - thanks, legend says, to eggs mixed into the mortar - until it was made pedestrian-only after WWII.

In the crush, don't forget to look at the bridge itself (climb one of the bridge towers for a great view) and the grand vistas up and down the river. Gangs of pickpockets work the bridge day and night, so keep track of your purse or wallet.