Not to miss

Rabaul

Against a dramatic backdrop of volcanoes, Rabaul was spectacular before it was destroyed by the September 1994 eruption of Tuvurvur. Today, Rabaul is a weird wasteland buried to the waist in black volcanic ash. The broken frames of its buildings poke out of the mud like the wings of a dead bird.

While looking like a movie set for an apocalypse or sci-fi film, with rubble and ruined buildings receding in every direction, it's still worth a visit. You can walk around the deserted streets, climb all the volcanoes except for the still-smoking Tuvurvur, and the diving in the area is exceptional.

Port Moresby

Port Moresby is the capital of PNG and the major exit/entry point for travellers. A sprawling, crime-plagued city (razor wire and snapping guard dogs are everywhere), Port Moresby is probably more bark than bite and does have some interesting things to see and do.

Varirata National Park

Varirata National Park, Papua New Guinea's first such park, has a variety of interesting and clearly marked walking trails, plus some excellent lookouts with views back to the country's capital and the south coast. Some of the trails can be quite jungle-like, which is surprising considering the park's proximity to Port Moresby.

The bird-watching here can be quite rewarding, with an array of kingfishers and Raggiana bird of paradise as highlights. It's possible to camp in the park.

Mt Wilhelm

Climbing to the 4509m (14,790ft) summit of Mt Wilhelm has long been a highlight for many visitors to the country's Highlands. It's hard work, but on a clear day you can see both the north and south coasts of the mainland. If you don't plan on tackling the summit, the region around the base offers fantastic walking and dramatic landscapes.

Lake Kutubu

The Lake Kutubu area has one of just five national parks in PNG. South of Mendi, Lake Kutubu has some of the Highlands' most beautiful scenery. According to legend, the lake was formed when a fig tree was cut down by a woman looking for water. The story goes that whatever the tree touched turned to water - hence the lake.

The lake is beautiful, and the surrounding country is home to friendly people living a largely traditional life. Butterflies and birds of paradise are common. You can swim in the lake and visit local villages or walk and appreciate the beauty and peace. Kutubu is the Highlands' second-largest lake, and, at 800m (2600ft) above sea level, PNG's highest substantial body of water (although the Mt Wilhelm's crater lakes are higher). It has a remarkable level of fish endemicity - 10 of the 14 species of fish are found only in this lake.