Not to miss

Angaur

Angaur is the southernmost of the Palau Islands group, and for the independent traveller looking to get off the beaten track, it has some serious South Seas charm. It's a low-key place, with only one village and just over 200 people, who are outnumbered 3-to-1 by crab-eating macaques.

Angaur's lone village overlooks its harbour on the western coast. The harbour, which is nearly enclosed, has waters so calm you'd think it was a giant swimming pool. North of town, there's an old Japanese lighthouse hidden by a jungle on a hill with a great view from the top.

There's a miniature wooden Shinto shrine located on the northwestern coast, with a nice beach nearby and good snorkelling when the water's calm. On the northwestern tip of the island there's a statue of the Virgin Mary, erected to protect Angaur from stormy seas. A Buddhist memorial with markers honouring fallen Japanese soldiers is nearby, and if you look to the east you'll see a big blowhole.

On the northeastern side of the island, an eerie airplane graveyard is littered with pieces of wrecked WWII planes. You'll have to look closely into the dense jungle covering, as most of them are overgrown.

Koror

The economic centre and capital of Palau, Koror is home to two-thirds of the republic's population. It's a much quieter town today than it was pre-WWII under Japanese occupation, with a pace more typically Micronesian - busy but without the hustle.

If you dig deep enough, you'll still find remnants of a more traditional past, but at best, Koror is good for a day or two of exploration. Beyond that, use the city as a jumping off point for trips to the Rock Islands, Peleliu, Angaur and the other islands.

On Koror Island, the Belau National Museum is a good place to firm up your understanding of the nation's culture and history. It's packed with exhibits ranging from the mounted head of a 5m (15ft) crocodile to Palauan bead and shell money. On the grounds is a beautiful wood and thatch bai (communal meeting centre) and a few remnants of Japan's war machine.

Malakal Island, across from Koror, is home to the Micronesia Mariculture Demonstration Center, a marine research lab engaged in conservation and commercial projects. The Center's big claim to fame is its success in cultivating the threatened giant tridacna clam. There's an excellent view of the Rock Islands from nearby Malakal Hill.

Rock Islands

The Rock Islands are Palau's crowning glory. More than 200 of these jungle-topped knobs of limestone dot the waters for a 35km stretch south of Koror. Their bases, having been worn away by tidal action and grazing sea creatures, are narrower than their tops, causing them to look like emerald-hued mushrooms rising from the turquoise sea.

From the air, the Rock Islands are a knock out, and flights from Koror to Angaur or Peleliu are worth taking just for the view alone. But it's the waters surrounding them that make the Rock Islands unique. Dive in and you'll find some of the most abundant and diverse marine life in the world.

The Ngemelis Wall is widely considered to be the world's finest wall dive. Starting in knee-deep water, it vertically drops off nearly 300m, showcasing a brilliant rainbow of sponges and soft coral whose intense colors form the backdrop for quivering 3m sea fans and giant black coral trees. Blue Corner is the country's most popular dive, where you can expect to be dazzled by an incredible variety of fins and flippers, from schooling sharks and barracudas to soft and hard coral.

Some of the Rock Islands have soft, white-sand beaches to laze about on after a dive, while others boast attractions such as caves with dripping stalactites, rock arches and underground channels; ancient rock paintings (on Ulong Island); and half-carved Yapese stone money (in a cave near Airar Channel). And, oh yes, crocodiles.

Badrulchau

In Babeldaob's far north is a field with rows of large basalt monoliths known as Badrulchau, the origin of which is unknown. There are 37 stones, some weighing up to 4500kg (5 tons). Many of the surrounding hillsides were once elaborately terraced into steps and pyramids; it's thought construction began around AD 100 and was abandoned around 1600.

Peleliu

Peleliu imparts a peaceful, easy feeling. There's not much to do and that's entirely the charm, for you can really hear the silence; often it will seem like you've got the entire island all to yourself (you might not spot another tourist during your entire stay, and maybe not even a local if you walk far enough). It's a really lovely little place and that's why it's so hard to imagine it torn apart by war.

The Peleliu Wall, southwest of Peleliu, is one of the world's finest dives, an abrupt 300m drop that starts in about 3m of water. It's a veritable treasure-trove of sharks, hawksbill sea turtles, black coral trees, mammoth gorgonian fans and an amazing variety of fish. Both White Beach and Bloody Beach have coral and good snorkelling; Honeymoon Beach is also good for snorkelling.