Not to miss

Batinah Coast

Oman's northern coast easily deserves a good two or three days. Most of the towns feature stunning forts, each different enough to warrant seeing. Some 175km (108mi) west of Muscat, Rustaq is best known for its imposing fort, though for a time in the Middle Ages it was Oman's capital.

Barka, just west of Muscat, has a fort and a restored house showing how wealthier Omanis lived many years ago. Inland, the town of Nakhal, with its dramatic fort, leads to the lush spring known as A'Thorwarah, which emerges into a wadi here to form a stream and small oasis - perfect for a picnic.

Sohar, a good 150km (90mi) further up the coast, is the home port of the fictional Sinbad the sailor, and one of those places where history casts a shadow over modern reality. A thousand years ago it occupied three times its present area and was the largest town in the country. Sohar Fort is a large, whitewashed rectangle with a single tower rising from its courtyard. It's a dramatic sight after the earth-coloured forts that predominate in Oman.

Muscat

Oman's capital enchants visitors in a way that no other city in the Gulf can even begin to match. Maybe it's because Muscat doesn't have that slightly artificial feel which typifies so much of the rest of the region. Muscat, Mutrah and Ruwi are the capital's core districts.

Muscat, the old port area, is the site of the sultan's main palace and a fascinating place to wander around, but has few shops and sights except for the old city walls. Mutrah, just northwest of Muscat, is the main trading and residential port area. Ruwi is the capital's modern commercial district.

There are three forts in Muscat, all of which took on their more or less present form in the 1580s during the Portuguese occupation. Mutrah Fort sits on a hill while Jalali and Mirani forts guard the entrance to Muscat. Each fort still sees police and/or military use and is closed to the public, but photos are allowed. Muscat has by far the best aquarium in the Gulf (English descriptions!); all of the specimens on display are native to Omani waters. The Oman Museum, in the Medinat Qaboos, west of Muscat, covers the entire sweep of Oman's 5000-year history. The National Museum in Ruwi and the Sultan's Armed Forces Museum in the Bait al-Falaj fort are also worth a look.

Salalah

Oman's second city is a striking change from Muscat. Salalah is about the only corner of Arabia that catches the Indian summer monsoon, and it's also the best base for exploring the villages and archaeological sites of southern Oman.

The ruins of Al-Balid, site of the ancient city of Zafar, lie about 5km east of the centre, on the coast. Zafar's heyday was in the 11th and 12th centuries when it was an active trading port. Coins from as far away as China have been found at the site. There are very good beaches all along the road to Mughsail, once you're about 5km west of Salalah.

Wadi Shab

This wadi is arguably one of the most gorgeous destinations in Oman. Beyond the breathtaking entrance, the wadi rewards you with views of aquamarine pools, waterfalls and terraced plantations; kingfishers add glorious splashes of colour. For the adventurous, there are plenty of opportunities for (discreet) swimming and a visit to a partially submerged cave.

Jabrin Castle

Rising without competition from the surrounding plain, Jabrin Castle is an impressive sight. Even if you have had a surfeit of fortifications, make the effort to climb one more keep as Jabrin is one of the best preserved and whimsical of them all. Head for the flagpole for a bird's-eye view of the latticed-window courtyard at the heart of the keep.