Not to miss

Central Norway

The central part of Norway takes in the country's highest mountains, largest glacier and most spectacular fjords. Unsurprisingly, this region is the top destination for almost all travellers to the country. The historic city of Bergen is the main jumping-off point for the western fjords.

From here you can visit Sognefjord, Norway's longest (200km) and deepest (1300m) fjord; the scenic Hardangerfjord; the massive Jostedalsbreen glacier; spectacular waterfalls at Geirangerfjord; and Trollveggen, a jagged and often cloud-shrouded summit near Åndalsnes that is considered the ultimate challenge among Norwegian mountain climbers.

In addition, there are resorts, excellent national parks, and road trips through some of Norway's most breathtaking scenery. Don't miss the 470km (291mi) train journey on the Oslo-Bergen railway: this scenic trip is Norway's finest, and passes through mountain ranges and the windswept Hardanger plateau.

Oslo

Norway's capital and largest city creeps up on you and makes you very glad you came. Possessed of a staid reputation and by no measure Scandinavia's most beautiful city, low-key Oslo nonetheless has lots to see and do - it just doesn't make such a big fuss about it.

Oslo promotes itself as an outdoors city where the people are friendly and the air and water are clean. It also proudly boasts that its summer climate 'outwarms' all its rivals. In fact its quaint 'niceness' is perhaps the most lasting impression that most visitors take home with them.

It's compact but not too small, it's old but not in decay, it's expensive but there are ways around it and it's welcoming without being in-your-face. So if you've saved your pennies and want to see a slice of Scandinavian beauty, pack your bags, head to Oslo and enjoy... everyone does.

Tromsø

The 'Gateway to the Arctic' is a stark contrast to the sober communities dotting the northern coast of Norway. It's a spirited town with street music, cultural happenings, more pubs per capita than any other place in the country and many 'northenmost' claims. Snow-capped mountains provide the scenic backdrop, the town has a swag of period buildings and the Tromsø Museum is a good place to learn about Lapp culture. There's also fine skiing here in winter.

Heddal stave church

Heddal stave church is Telemark's most visited attraction. It's an impressive structure and possibly dates from 1242, but parts of the chancel date from as early as 1147. Of great interest are the 'rose' paintings, a runic inscription, the bishop's chair and the altarpiece.

Visitors attending church services are welcome, but to avoid disruption, you must remain for the entire one-hour service.

Norsk Folkemuseum

This fascinating open-air museum contains around 150 buildings from different regions, mostly dating as far back as the 13th century. Though the buildings themselves are authentic, they're juxtaposed in a Disney-eqsue recreation of a fictive landscape. Even so, if you drink a few Aass beers and squint, you'll swear you've stepped back a few hundred years.

You'll wander past old banks, pharmacies, post offices, barns and farmhouses and see folk dancing and weaving and people dressed in festive costumes. The Old Town section reproduces an early 20th-century town and contains a petrol station, a general store, and a huge display of old toys, costumes, tools and appliances from around the country.

Emanuel Vigeland Museum

For a freakish sensory overload, enter the Emanuel Vigeland Museum containing his life's work and mausoleum - a specially designed vaulted chamber where you duck under a low door (and thus pay tribute to his ashes, interned above) to enter an eerie nave with almost zero lighting.

As your eyes adjust to the dark, you'll begin to discern enormous frescoes reaching up to a distant ceiling. These depict human life from conception to death (sometimes erotically). Entirely surfaced with smooth stone, the bizarre chamber has such incredible acoustics that visitors are required to wear cloth booties to deaden the echoing thuds created by the slightest footstep. Overheard cell phone user: 'Sorry mum, I'm in a pornographic church museum. I can't talk now. Call you later, bye!'

Jotunheimen National Park

This national park is one of Norway's best wilderness destinations. It has a network of hiking trails leading to some 60 glaciers and to the country's loftiest peaks (the 2469m/8100ft Galdhøpiggen and 2452m/8044ft Glittertind). The trails pass through ravine-like valleys, deep lakes and plunging waterfalls. Huts and private lodgings are along many of the routes.

Akershus Slott & Festning

A visit to Oslo is incomplete without taking in the medieval Akershus Castle and Fortress. As you wander around the castle you'll find tiny rooms where outcast nobles were kept, in stark contrast to the far more elaborate dining halls and staterooms on the upper floors.

King Håkon V began construction of the earthen walled Akershus Festning (Akershus Fortress) in 1299. It is strategically positioned on the eastern side of the harbour and the parklike grounds offer excellent views of the city and Oslofjord. The grounds are the venue for a host of concerts, dances and theatrical productions during summer. The Akershus Festning Information Centre recounts the building of the fortress. In the 17th century, Christian IV renovated Akershus Slott (Akershus Castle) into a Renaissance palace, though the front remains decidedly medieval. In its dungeons you'll find dark cubby-holes where outcast nobles were kept under lock and key, while the upper floors have banquet halls and staterooms.

The chapel is still used for army events and the crypts of kings Håkon VII and Olav V lie beneath it. Tours of the castle are led by students in period dress, and provide entertaining anecdotal history; otherwise you can wander through on your own.