Not to miss

Aïr Mountains

Just south of the Ténéré Desert are the Aïr Mountains, home to the Tuareg, and the beginning of the long desert camel treks in search of salt. It is the last hospitable stop before the harshness of the Ténéré Desert. The Aïr Massif is one of the most spectacular sights in West Africa.

It covers an area the size of Switzerland, and has black rocks capped by unusually sharp peaks. Hidden in the interior are the hot thermal springs at Tafadek, the green oases of Timia and Iferouâne, and the spectacular waterfalls just outside of Timia.

Tour operators in this part of the globe only operate between Tuareg uprisings, so the availability of guides needs to be sussed out beforehand. You can fly, bus or catch a bush taxi from Niamey to Agadez, and from Agadez, either a hire a car with guide, or organised tour, to the mountains. The highest peak in the Aïr Mountains is 1163km (721mi) from Niamey.

Agadez

With its wide sandy streets and Sudanese architecture, Agadez is one of the more interesting towns in Niger, and is one of those strange towns that ebb and flow on the tide of history. In medieval times it was a flourishing city at the edge of the desert.

It overflowed with camel trains, caravanserai, slave traders, and gold transporters. By the mid-19th century Agadez looked all but doomed, but since then the population skyrocketed twice - with the discovery of uranium, and again when drought drove thousands of dispossessed people here in the 1970s.

Today the pulse of the city is dependant on the state, or disarray, of the newest peace accord between the government and Tuareg rebels.

The Grande Mosquée was totally rebuilt in 1844 and, with its pyramid-like minarets and wooden scaffolding, is a perfect example of Sudanese architecture. The Grand Marché is the most animated place in town - go for the spectacle, the people, and the variety of artisan's goods on display. If the bustle and the hustlers start to get to you, head for the Vieux Quartier, the old quarter of the town. The pace is less electric, and you can wander the crooked streets, visit the tiny shops, and study the Sudanese houses with their Hausa-inspired designs.

Agadez Grande Mosquée

In the centre of Agadez is the extraordinary Grande Mosquée, the single most definitive image of Niger for many people. The minaret's distinctive structure dates from 1844, although the mosque has been on this site since the early 16th century. The minaret, which you can climb for a small fee, enjoys spectacular views over the town and the surrounding desert.

Parc National Du W Du Niger

What this excellent national park lacks in animal numbers, it makes up for in spades with the diversity of its wildlife. Antelopes, buffalos, elephants, hippos, lions, leopards, cheetahs, baboons, Nile crocodiles, hyenas, jackals, warthogs and over 300 species of migratory bird call this unique environment home.

The park rests on the west bank of the Niger River and is an area of dry savanna woodland, a transition zone between the Sahel and the moister savannas to the south. The 'W' (pronounced du-blay-vay) in the name comes from the double bend in the Niger River at the park's northern border. The park is a massive 9120 sq km (56667 sq mi) and straddles Niger, Benin and Burkina Faso. Niger's portion is 2200 sq km (1367 sq mi).

The entrance to the park is at La Tapoa, 145km (90mi) south of Niamey and a guide is required.

Ténéré Desert

The Ténéré Desert fulfills the classic image of endless empty desert - towering sand dunes scattered here and there with cave paintings, dinosaur fossils and car wrecks. It's illegal to explore here unless you're in the company of a licensed guide from a licensed Nigerien travel agency.

Police require a feuille de route (official itinerary) for all vehicles travelling north of Agadez - these are only issued by licensed Nigerien travel agencies in Agadez and Niamey.