Not to miss

Kathmandu

Kathmandu is really two cities: a fabled capital of convivial pilgrims and carved rose-brick temples, and a frenetic sprawl of modern towers, mobbed by beggars and monkeys and smothered in diesel fumes. It simultaneously reeks of history and the encroaching wear and tear of the modern world.

Kathmandu has been attracting travellers since the 1960s and today's visitors range from well-heeled guided tourists and GoreTex-clad trekkers to the pierced and dreadlocked descendants of Nepal's original hippie trailblazers.

For many people, stepping off the plane into Kathmandu is a shock - the sights, sounds and smells can lead to sensory overload. Whether you're buzzing through the crazy polluted traffic in a taxi, hurtling down the narrow winding streets of the old town in a rickshaw, crowding into temple-packed Durbar Square or dodging the tiger balm sellers and trekking touts, Kathmandu can be an intoxicating and exhausting place - but most people feel this is a small price to pay for a city of such invigorating energy and fabulous medieval history.

Pokhara

Imagine a perfect, snow-capped mountain buffeted by icy Himalayan winds. Imagine a millpond calm lake reflecting the snowy peaks. Now imagine a village on the shore, thronged by travellers and reverberating to the sound of 'Om Mani Padme Hum' wafting from shops selling prayer flags, carpets, masks, singing bowls and CDs of Buddhist mantras. That's Pokhara.

Nepal's second city - at least in tourist terms - Pokhara is the end point for the famous Annapurna Circuit and starting point for a dozen more treks through the Annapurna Range. Even if you aren't a dedicated trekker, Pokhara has numerous museums, and there are fascinating caves, waterfalls, a hilltop monastery and Tibetan villages in the surrounding hills.

And wouldn't you know it, Pokhara has some of the country's best accommodation and restaurants as well. For many travellers, Pokhara represents a last chance to stock up on creature comforts before hitting the mountain trails. For others, it's a place to enjoy a steak and cold beer after weeks of dhal bhat in the hills.

Travel agents in Pokhara offer a slew of adventure activities, from trekking and microlight flights to river rafting and jungle safaris. Paragliding from Sarangkot viewpoint has to be one of the most thrilling experiences in the subcontinent.

Alternatively, bring a good book and spend your days reading in a cafe overlooking languorous Phewa Tal (Fewa Lake).

Hanuman Dhoka (Old Royal Palace)

The old royal palace is a part of Durbar Square, which remains the traditional heart of the old town and a spectacular example of traditional architecture. The king no longer lives here - the royal family moved to Narayanhiti more than a century ago - and the 1934 earthquake damaged the complex, but it remains a fascinating place to explore.

The western part of the palace, overlooking Durbar Square, is home to an interesting museum that celebrates King Tribhuvan's successful putsch against the Ranas. Wander inside and you get an eerie insight into his life: lots of personal effects, extensive photos and newspaper clippings and magnificent furniture and knick-knackery.

Royal Chitwan National Park

Royal Chitwan National Park provides one of the finest wildlife experiences in Asia. While you'd have to be lucky to see one of the tigers or leopards, an elephant safari is an unforgettable experience and you are almost certain to see rhinos, deer, monkeys and numerous bird species, as well as the jumbo underneath you!

Dakshinkali

At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort in her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week, Nepalese visitors journey here to satisfy her bloodlust.

They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs, which are matter-of-factly dispatched by having their throats slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing, are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff.