Not to miss

Four Holy Peaks

Considered holy, the four peaks surrounding Ulaan Bataar are the Tsetseegum, Chingeltei, Songino Khairkhan and Bayansurkh mountains and they correspond roughly to the 4 points on the compass. These peaks are popular for their hiking, forests, grasslands and stunning bird and animal life.

Tsetseegum Uul is easily the most magnificent. At 2260m (7400ft), it's the highest point in the Bogdkhan Uul range. The trip is only sensible from the beginning of June to the end of September and a permit is required, which you can get at the entrance gate to the Bogdkhan National Park.

The Manzshir Khiid Route to Tsetseegum from the mountain's southern side is the easiest. Along it there are broad meadows, fields of rocky boulders and ovoos (pile of stones left as offerings to the gods). The Zaisan Route is the most scenic but also the most difficult, taking about 6 hours each way along precariously steep boulders. Anyway you go, along with the permit, you'll need a compass, plenty of water, food and cold weather gear, as sudden thunderstorms and icy winds can come out of nowhere, even in summer.

Khovd

Once a small farming community, and later a centre for Russian and Mongolian trading, Khovd city is now a major industrial centre and a good place from which to start exploring western Mongolia. At the northern end of the city are the rapidly disappearing Sangiin Kherem ruins, built around 1762 by the Manchu warlords who once conquered, and brutally governed, Mongolia. The walled compound was completely abandoned after the 1911 Chinese Revolution overthrew the last emperor. The dry, rugged hills north of the ruins offer some great views and good hiking.

Tavanbogd National Park

This stunningly beautiful park includes the three lakes of Khoton Nuur, Khurgan Nuur and Dayan Nuur. It's a remote place, divided from China by the high wall of snow-capped peaks, and is known to local Kazakhs as the Syrgali region. It's possible to make rafting trips downriver from Dayan Nuur, and there are many archaeological sites in the area.

Shiliin Bogd

At 1778m (5830ft), Shiliin Bogd is the highest peak in Sükhbaatar aimag region in Mongolia's east. The extinct volcano is sacred to many Mongolians and is set in a stunning and isolated area. A jeep can get you about halfway up the mountain, and then it's a short but blustery walk to the top for awesome views of craters across the nearby border to China.

Amarbayasgalant Khiid

Amarbayasgalant Khiid is considered one of the most important monasteries in Mongolia. It's also one of the most beautiful. It was originally built in 1737 by the Manchurian emperor Kansu, who dedicated it to the great Mongolian Buddhist and sculptor, Zanabazar. The communists found their way here in the 1930s and destroyed 10 of the 37 temples and statues.

These days the temples are normally closed, but you can ask the head monk to open them and you're welcome to watch the 30 resident monks conduct their daily ceremonies.