Getting there & Getting around

Getting there

Flights to Almaty most commonly transit through Istanbul (Turkey), Vienna (Austria), Frankfurt (Germany) and Moscow (Russia). The main Asia links are Ürümqi (Xinjiang, China), Islamabad (Pakistan) and New Delhi (India). Some smaller Kazakh cities have international flights but rarely to anywhere except Russia. Long-distance rail connections include a daily Moscow-Almaty service and another line to Almaty from China via Ürümqi. The latter route is notable for the unpleasant China-Kazakhstan border crossing (think eight hours, no toilets, plundering officials). There's an overland route from Ürümqi to Almaty via the border post at Khorgos and Zharkent, accessible year-round. There are two other China-Kazakhstan crossings farther north, at Bakhty (Tacheng on the China side) and Maikapchagai (Jeminay in China), but it's a toss up whether they're open to foreigners. There is also a once-weekly ferry from Baku to Aktau in Kazakhstan, although there is no set schedule for depature. Just turn up at the port and ask about the next available departure. A ticket is 50.00 and the trip takes 18 hours.

Getting around

Flying saves time and takes the tedium out of Kazakhstan's long distances, but it is the least edifying and arguably the least safe mode of transport in the region. However, for some destinations, and in some seasons, flying is the only sensible option. Helicopters are often available to get to hiking and skiing destinations that are way off the beaten track.

Trains are cheap, slow and easy going, but crowded, grotty and increasingly crime-ridden. Buses are the most frequent and convenient way to get between towns cheaply, and the best way to see what remains of the land of the nomads, though long trips can be tedious and cramped, and vehicles are prone to breakdowns. An option in many areas is to hire a car and driver: taxis and private citizens are often willing to take travellers between cities.

Visa information

Central Asia is notorious for its visa hassles, but the good news is that things are improving (if only a little) in Kazakhstan. With most Western passports it is normally possible to get a Kazakh visa from a Kazakh embassy in your own country with just a cover letter stating why you intend to go. A letter of invitation is no longer required if you apply at a Kazakh embassy. Visa prices in the West, however, are still pretty steep, eg. 125.00 for US citizens or 33.00 for UK citizens. Invitation-free visas are good for a maximum of 30 days. Another option is to get a visa at the airport in Almaty (tourist visa 40.00), but for this you will need an LOI from a company or travel agent (which will charge about 30.00-40.00. It is not usually possible to get a visa at any other airport in the country or at any land borders. Getting a visa at a Kazakh embassy elsewhere in Asia is possible, but the situation remains unpredictable and you may be required to show proof of hotel bookings. Getting a visa in a Central Asian capital like Bishkek, Dushanbe or Tashkent is easier and less expensive 40.00.

If you need a transit visa, these are available to most western nationalities at the airport as long as you have a ticket out of Kazakhstan within five calendar days. Travellers are usually registered with OVIR when they enter the country, but it's a good idea to check whether this has been done or if you need to register with an OVIR office. When in doubt, register within five days of your arrival.