Not to miss

Baghdad

Prior to the end of the last century, for many people, the name of this ancient city conjures up vivid images: starry skies, golden domes and minarets; women shrouded in black gliding through narrow streets; shafts of sunlight flitering through bazaars and shops overflowing with exotic merchandise.

While a glimmer of these images still exist, it's not the kind of city that makes an immediate impact, unless of course it's the impact of a war-zone that you're looking for. The old Baghdad is gone, the new Baghdad is broken - but a city this ancient knows a thing or two about reinvention.

Basra

Basra, 550km (343mi) south of Baghdad and 130km (83mi) from the Gulf, was founded by the caliph Omar in 637 AD. It was originally a military base but it rapidly grew into a major Islamic city. Today it's Iraq's main sea port and second-largest city, and thus of enormous strategic importance.

While often the scene for battle between insurgents, terrorist and armed forces, its beauty is still evident in areas such as extensive palm groves on the outskirts of the city. Most of Iraq's dates are grown in and around Basra.

Babylon

Babylon, perhaps the most famous of Iraq's ancient sites, was most prominent during the reign of Nebuchadnezzar II (605-563 BC). With its high walls and magnificent palaces and temples, it was regarded as one of the world's most beautiful cities. Now, all that remains of the ruins of Babylon is a huge and magnificent lion, eroded by time and the weather.

Arch of Ctesiphon

Little is left of the city of Ctesiphon, apart from the arch. The city was built in the 2nd century BC by the Parthian Persians. The arch was part of a great banqueting hall and, apparently, is the widest single-span vault in the world. It survived the disastrous flooding of the Tigris in 1887, which destroyed much of the rest of the building.

Ur of the Chaldees

Ur is one of the most impressive ancient sites in Iraq. It was mentioned in the Bible as the birthplace of Abraham, and its earliest buildings date from 4000 BC. For three successive dynasties it was the capital of Sumeria. The ziggurat is impressive and the royal tombs well preserved.