Getting there & Getting around

Getting there

The principal gateways for entry to Indonesia are Jakarta and Bali. Jakarta is serviced by more airlines but Bali - as the tourist capital - receives almost as much traffic. Departure tax from Jakarta and Denpasar is 100000.00 and from other airports about 75000.00.

There are three land crossings to Indonesia: at Entikong, between Kalimantan and Sarawak; at Motoain between West and East Timor; and the road from Jayapura or Sentani (Papua) to Vanimo in PNG. Visa regulations have been fluid (to say the least) of late, so check the need for obtaining a visa in advance before you roll up at the border crossing.

Most of the sea connections are between Malaysia and Sumatra and the vessel of choice is the comfortable high-speed ferry from Penang to Medan. The other main ferry connection is between Dumai (Sumatra) and Malaka (Malacca). Ferries also run from southern Malaysia (Johor Bahru) to the Riau Islands. There are speedboats from east-coast Kalimantan to Sabah in Malaysia.

Getting around

Domestic air services have been in a state of flux since the economic downturn in the late 1990s. With a few new players entering the market and deregulation of air fares, competition is creeping back into the domestic business. Note that domestic tickets bought overseas in US dollars are about 50% more than if bought in Indonesia in rupiah. It is essential to reconfirm domestic flights in Indonesia, otherwise you may be bumped from the list because of widespread overbooking of flights. Departure tax on domestic flights fluctuates between 12000.00 and 20000.00.

Indonesia's main roads are generally excellently surfaced, with the mainstay of land travel being the ekonomi buses - cheap and cheerful fares that may democratically include chickens, pigs and anything in-between. Next step up is the express bus, which carries the same cargo but gets to the destination sooner; higher-up still are the luxury air-con buses, with all the whistles and bells that a coach can have.

Rail travel is restricted solely to Java and Sumatra. Indonesia's trains are pretty much a mixed bag: slow, miserable and cheap, or comfortable and expensive. It's advisable to buy train tickets a day in advance to ensure a seat. Cars, motorbikes and bicycles can be rented in the main cities and tourist centres. There are regular ferries between the various islands, many operated by Pelni (www.pelni.com). Kalimantan and Papua have undeveloped road systems and internal transport is primarily by river or by air.

Local transport includes the ubiquitous bemo (pick-up trucks with rows of seats along each side), opelet (minibuses), bajaj (auto rickshaws), becak (bicycle rickshaws) and dokar (horse-drawn carts); most are ridiculously cheap. Many towns have taxis, but be sure to agree on a fare in advance.

Visa information

Visa regulations have been in a state of flux since 2002, with changes being made in response to political imperatives and then reversed when pressure is brought to bear by tourism interests. Nationals of 39 countries, including Australia, the US and some European countries, are able to obtain a visa on arrival in Indonesia. Visas on arrival can only be obtained at designated international airports and seaports and Indonesia requires at least 6 months validity remaining on passports for visitors entering the country.

Two visa types are available to passengers arriving at a point of entry where the 'visa on arrival' facility is offered. These are a three day short-stay visa for 10.00 and a 30 day visa for 25.00. Payment must be made in US dollars on arrival. It is recommended that travellers have the exact US dollars cash available as not all entry points will have full bank facilities in place until late 2004. Citizens of a further 11 countries, mostly in southeast Asia, do not require visas. All other nationals, or those who need the longer, 60-day tourist visa, will need to obtain a visa before arrival.