Not to miss

Maui

Maui's scenery is superb and its landscapes serene. The island's sunny western coast is lined with gorgeous white-sand beaches, and in winter the warm oceans are alive with humpback whales. You can explore jungles and waterfalls, windsurf with the pros or enjoy a drink at Lahaina's historic taverns.

Maui is known as the 'Valley Island' because of its two large extinct volcanoes divided by a tropical central valley. It's the second-largest of the Hawaiian islands and the most developed of the Neighbor Islands. Its windsurfing and surf spots are some of the best in the world.

Fortunately, the rambling resorts are largely confined to the beach areas of West Maui, so it's easy to escape to the uplands or east coast, where you'll find rainforests, eucalyptus groves and cattle ranches. Most of the tourist infrastructure is in Lahaina, Kaanapali, Kihei and Wailea. Head to Haiku, Kula, Pa'ia or Hana to escape the tourist scene.

O'ahu

O'ahu is home to Honolulu, the biggest city in Hawaii; Waikiki, the Pacific's leisure-and-pleasure capital; North Shore, home to some of the world's biggest surf; Pearl Harbor and its evocative WWII memorials; and a relaxed multicultural mix that gives a memorable flavour to its streetscapes and restaurants.

O'ahu has a magical landscape of dream-like contrasts. The coastline of the island alternates between silky smooth white sand beaches and razor-sharp lava ledges enticing the vast ocean to break and cascade upon its dramatic stage. Add the ubiquitous smell of the native ginger and your senses start flying.

Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park

Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park comprises ancient temples, royal grounds, burial sites and a pu'uhonua (place of refuge). Explore the carved-wood representations of ancient gods; the stone board for konane, an ancient form of checkers played with black lava and white coral; and the wonderful snorkelling found off some natural lava steps.

Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park

Unique among American parks, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park contains two active volcanoes and terrain ranging from tropical beaches to the sub-arctic, 4103m (13,679ft) summit of Mauna Loa. The centrepiece is Kilauea Caldera, the still-steaming sunken centre of Kilauea Volcano. Rangers can provide the lowdown on guided walks and trail conditions.

Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea (White Mountain) is Hawaii's highest peak, and its 4140m (13,796ft) summit has a cluster of observatory domes, containing what is considered the greatest collection of astronomical telescopes in the world. The Onizuka Center offers displays and stargazing, while a rugged 9.7km (6mi) hiking trail leads from here to the summit.

In Hilo, visit the 'Imiloa Astronomy Center, a planetarium and museum about modern science and ancient Hawaiian voyaging - and a good complement to visiting the summit.