Not to miss

Mali

Also called Mali-ville to distinguish it from the country, Mali is the highest town in the Fouta Djalon. It has cool temperatures, exquisite views and is ideal for hiking. Mt Loura (1538m, 5044ft) is just north of town and worth seeing, as is La Dame de Mali, a legendary rock a few km further on.

Faranah

At night Faranah comes alive with several cafes and restaurants serving drinks and cheap meals. It has wide boulevards, a conference centre, a large mosque and an impressive private villa now used as a hotel. Faranah is only 150km (93mi) from the source of the Niger River.

Mt Nimba

Mount Nimba, Guinea's highest peak at 1752m (5748ft), is part of the mountain range straddling Guinea, Côte d'Ivoire and Liberia. The summit, best reached from the village of Gbakoré, 18km (11mi) southeast of Lola, offers phenomenal views of surrounding peaks in all three countries.

It's a steep, winding four-hour trek to the top, a guide is mandatory and a permit is required.

There are several good guides for hire in Gbakoré and you should let your guide get your permit for you because this can be a real pain.

The Nimba mountains host a rich variety of plant and animal life, in particular some notable amphibians such as the goliath frogs, which can weigh as much as three kilograms, and the Nimba toads, which bear live young.

Bossou

This sleepy village on the Liberian border is one of the best places in west Africa to see chimpanzees. Guides from the research centre track the chimps daily, so face-to-faces are nearly guaranteed, and the hikes through the remaining patch of primary forest covering the surrounding hills are scenic regardless of who you meet along the way.

Cape Verga

Cape Verga, just a few hours from Conakry, has some of the best beaches in Guinea. Bel Air beach, once a great place to chill in beach huts is now dominated by President Conté's flash hotel. Thankfully, nearby Sobané beach has comfy bungalows and options for al fresco sleep outs.

The deserted stretch of sand between Bel Air and Sobané is ideal for exploration. Except for the fishing families who live here, Cape Verga is deserted for most of the week, but comes alive at weekends with expatriates from the capital and the bauxite mines inland. Getting there without your own wheels is difficult because few vehicles travel this way, even though it is one of the best roads in the country.