Not to miss

Panaji

Most visitors treat Panaji as little more than a transport hub, but this lovely state capital has retained its Portuguese heritage in a lived-in, knockabout kind of way and exudes an aura more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than of India.

If it weren't for the crush at the bus depot, the unmistakable buzz of auto-rickshaws and the fact that the bridge over the Mandovi River has fallen down twice in recent years, Panaji could seem like any siesta-ridden provincial town on the Iberian Peninsula.

It contains all the quaint Mediterranean iconography - from the cramped cobbled streets, pastel-hued terraces and flower-bedecked balconies to the terracotta-tiled roofs, whitewashed churches and those small bars and cafes that are the social lifeblood of secular Portugal.

The old district of Fontainhas is the most atmospheric area to walk around, and includes the Chapel of St Sebastian. The Church of the Immaculate Conception is Panaji's main place of worship, and it was here that recently arrived sailors from Portugal gave thanks for a safe passage. It's worth taking one of the river cruises along the Mandovi River, but don't loiter under the bridge spans.

Chapora

This is a fascinating part of the Goan coastline and more genuinely salubrious than Anjuna. It boasts a patchwork of coconut palms and the enigmatic character of Chapora village, which is more unruly farmyard than fishing community doubling as beach resort.

The village is on the estuary of the Chapora River and is overshadowed by a rocky hill which supports a well-preserved Portuguese fort. There are sandy coves, pleasant beaches and rocky cliffs at nearby Vagator. Be prepared for Indian coach tourists coming to ogle sunbathing Westerners.

Fort Aguada

Standing on the headland overlooking the mouth of the Mandovi River, Fort Aguada is one of several ruined coastal forts in Goa and occupies a dramatic hilltop position. Its strategic value is confirmed by the fact that it was never taken by force. A popular spot to watch the sunset, the Fort commands uninterrupted views north and south. Today the main point of interest is the bastion that stands on the hilltop itself.

Braganza House

The best known of Chandor's superb colonial mansions is Braganza House, which takes up one complete side of Chandor's village square and dates back to the 17th century. It's now divided into east and west wings - two separate houses - which stretch outwards from a common front entrance. The exterior facade of the mansion, with 24 windows, is the longest in Goa.

Ongoing restoration is returning Braganza House to its Portuguese-era glory. Wandering through the ballrooms with their Italian marble floors, Belgian glass chandeliers and carved rosewood furniture, it's not hard to imagine the kinds of parties that were thrown here.

The east wing is owned by the Braganza Pereira family, and includes a small family chapel containing a carefully hidden relic of St Francis Xavier - a holy fingernail. The west wing is crammed with beautiful furniture and Chinese porcelain from Macau.

The two large rooms behind the entrance halls contain Dr Menezes Braganza's extensive library - Luís de Menezes Braganza was a journalist and a leader in the Goan Independence movement.

Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary

Named after the late Dr Salim Moizzudin Abdul Ali, India's best-known ornithologist, this little wetland sanctuary was proclaimed by the Forest Department in 1988 to protect the birdlife that thrives here and the mangroves that have grown around reclaimed marshland.

Apart from the ubiquitous white egrets and purple herons, you can expect to see colourful kingfishers, eagles, cormorants, kites, woodpeckers, sandpipers, curlews, drongos and mynahs, to name a few. Marsh crocodiles and otters can also be seen, along with the mudskipper fish that skim across the water's surface at low tide. There's a bird-watching tower in the sanctuary that can be reached by boat when the water level is not too low.

The best time to visit is either in the early morning (about 8 o'clock) or in the evening (a couple of hours before sunset). Definitely the best way to cruise the waterways is in a dugout canoe with a local boatman.