Not to miss

Kaw

Kaw is one of French Guiana's most accessible wildlife areas. Despite this, it's 65km (40mi) southeast of Cayenne and is only reachable by a paved and dirt highway, then by launch across the Kaw River, or by catching a launch downstream from Régina.

Well off the beaten track, Kaw's main attraction is the abundant marshes in the area, which are home to a variety of bird life as well as plenty of caimans, a smaller relative of the American alligator. Fortunately, basic lodging is also available.

Cayenne

A focal point of the Caribbean, South America and Europe, Cayenne is a city of chestnut-skinned Africans, cafè-au-lait Brazilians and Paris-pink French. Vibrant markets and excellent restaurants make this town as pleasing to the belly as it is to the eye; you won't want to be skipping any meals here.

The streets are lined with colonial wrought-iron balconies, potted plants and flowers, and louvered shutters painted in tropical pinks, yellows and turquoise. Outside the colonial city center, a highway-riddled urban sprawl reminds you that you're still in the 21st century.

Center Spatial Guyanais

Satellite launching is big business and it's unlikely you'll ever come across a more interesting place to learn about it than here. Hop on a guided bus tour of the launchers and control room of the world's most active satellite rocket center. And check out the Space Museum, which takes the fun beyond satellites and into outer space.

Tours are in French but it's possible to get an English- or German-speaking guide if you have a group and organise far enough in advance.

Camp de la Transportation

Most of the creepy Camp de la Transportation, the processing area for arriving prisoners, can only be seen on a guided hour and half hour tour -pay at the tourist office. See the leg shackles, tiny cells, public execution areas and more - restored just enough to keep them dark and eerie.

One cell has Papillion's name engraved near the bed but whether this was really his cell is up to debate. Convicts arrived by boatfuls of 500 to 600 men and it took 20 days to cross the Atlantic.

Îles du Salut

The Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) are best known for the notorious prison. Île Royale, once the administrative headquarters, now has the best restored prison buildings including the restaurant/auberge. Île St Joseph, with its creepy solitary-confinement cells, has been left to be eaten up by the jungle, which only makes its ghosts feel more alive.

Île du Diable was home to political prisoners, including Alfred Dreyfus, but is now closed to the public because of hazardous currents.