Not to miss

Suva

Nestled into a yawning harbour on the southeastern coast of the big island of Viti Levu, Suva is sticky with sweat and industry, but this is Fiji's confluence of ethnicities and cultures. Within the urban milieu you'll discover the influence of every island and background.

While Nadi in Viti Levu's west is the country's tourism centre, Suva is Fiji's political and administrative capital and home to about half the country's population. It's also the largest city in the South Pacific and an important regional centre.

Downtown is a jigsaw of colonial buildings, abundant eateries and a breezy esplanade. Small passages transport you to a city somewhere in India with curry houses, sari shops and bric-a-brac traders. Dribbled along the hilly ascent behind the central business district are Suva's suburbs, some of which have the best urban views in the country.

Beyond its colonial-era buildings and modern shopping plazas, Suva's colour is best experienced wandering along its lively waterfront area, shopping for exotic fruits and spices at the Suva Municipal Market, and visiting the city's many mosques, temples and cultural centres.

Nadi

Fiji's third-biggest town is set against a mountainous backdrop on the west coast of Viti Levu. The local economy of Nadi relies almost totally on tourism, and although it's not the most attractive part of the country it is a good place to organise your travels around the Viti Levu island.

Nadi is also a good place to organise activities - anything from diving, golf, horse riding and rafting to joy-riding in a jet-boat or light plane. There is a plethora of tourist services from dirt-cheap accommodation and places to eat to luxury resorts like the Sheraton and the Regent.

There's a high proportion of Indo-Fijians in Nadi, mostly fourth-generation descendants of the indentured labourers brought to Fiji to work in the canefields.

The Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple at the southern end of the main street is interesting and visitors are welcome (but asked not to have consumed either alcohol or non-vegetarian food that day). There's a good market offering the usual eclectic mix of Melanesian, Chinese and Indian produce. The main strip is littered with restaurants and shops selling clothes, souvenirs and duty-free goods.

Koroyanitu National Heritage Park

If you are a keen walker or nature lover, the Koroyanitu National Heritage Park is definitely worth a visit. There are six villages within the park that cooperate as part of an ecotourism project. They maintain the landscape and tracks, and subsequently earn tourist dollars through village stays and manning the office.

Those who make the climb to the summit of Castle Rock, from Nase Lodge, will be rewarded with panoramic views of the Mamanucas and Yasawas. A marked track leads its way up; it takes about four hours (one way). There is also a two-hour hike that takes in a waterfall, the terraced gardens at Tunutunu and the Navuratu village site. A full-day hike to Mt Koroyanitu visits the remains of a fortified village.

Bouma National Heritage Park

This national park protects over 80% of Taveuni's total area, covering about 150 sq km (57 sq mi) of rainforest and coastal forest. The park has the three Tavoro Waterfalls near the falls' visitor centre, each with natural swimming pools. The first waterfall is about 24m (78ft) high and only 10 minutes' walk along a flat cultivated path.

The second waterfall, 30 or 40 minutes along, is a bit smaller but also has a good swimming pool. The track is quite steep in places but has steps, handrails and lookout spots to rest. If you are a keen walker, try the Vidawa Rainforest Trail.

Mamanuca Group

The Mamanucas are movie stars, Fiji's glittering jet set, forever photographed, and valued more for their natural beauty than any contribution they make to the national culture. Many of the 20-or-so islands take day-trippers from the mainland, who gorge themselves on buffets washed down with chilled Fiji Bitter, and sunbake on white sand beneath coconut palms.

The ocean around the islands has some excellent dive sites and Fiji's gnarliest surf spots. The snorkelling here is generally fantastic with the clear waters offering fascinating windows into the undersea world. Judging from the activities nights in most of the resorts, the Mamanucas are the crab-racing capital of the Pacific.