Not to miss

Perquín

Guerrilla capital of El Salvador during the civil war, Perquín is a safe place to visit despite a lingering reputation as a lawless frontier. Its natural beauty is as overwhelming as its past - all around stand low, stocky mountains, connected by broad valleys and a patchwork of subsistence farms.

Ilobasco

The name Ilobasco is Nahua for 'place of many corn fields', though today it's a town known for ceramics rather than cereals. Especially famous are its sorpresas (surprises), tiny, detailed scenes and figures enclosed in egg-shaped shells about the size of a walnut.

The scenes often depict innocuous events from village life, though one Ilobasco artist cheekily added a new dimension by enclosing a naked couple in the throes of sexual passion. The local priest attempted to confiscate these sinful sorpresas but they still sell, albeit tightly wrapped in paper.

Plaza Barrios

Plaza Barrios, the main plaza in San Salvador, is dedicated to a former president and crusader for the separation of church and state. There is a statue of Barrios astride a horse in the middle of the plaza, facing the cathedral and streaked with layers of pigeon poo. It's the spot where political protests often begin or end.

Iglesia El Rosario

What appears to be a dilapidated airport hangar is actually one of the most intriguing churches in the country. Opening into a shallow nave, the arched roof soars above. Beautifully simple, figures of scrap metal and stone create an industrial ambience which contrasts strikingly to its peaceful austerity and the gritty bustle of downtown San Salvador.

Lago de Coatepeque

A clean, sparkling blue volcanic crater-lake 6km (3.7mi) wide and 120m (394ft) deep, Coatepeque is surrounded by green slopes and the looming peaks of the Cerro Verde, Izalco and Santa Ana volcanoes. A popular weekend retreat for San Salvador's elite; many have lakeside homes which obstruct public access to the water. Still, it makes for a peaceful getaway.