Not to miss

Edinburgh Castle

The brooding, black crags of the Castle Rock, shouldering above Princes St Gardens, are the very reason for Edinburgh's existence. This rocky hill - the glacier-worn stump of an ancient volcano - was the most easily defended hilltop on the invasion route between England and central Scotland, a route followed by countless armies over the centuries.

The place has seen plenty of action: back in the 6th century it was used as a defence against the Picts, while in the 18th century Bonnie Prince Charlie's army tried but failed to breach its walls. These days hostilities are more likely to erupt between competing tour groups.

By the mid-18th century, the castle looked much as it does today. Partly thanks to Sir Walter Scott, in the 19th century it began to recover its importance as a Scottish symbol.

Visitors enter from the Esplanade, a parade ground where the changing of the guard occurs on the hour. Sites within the castle proper include Mills Mount Battery, where a gun salute takes place on weekdays; St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh; the Palace, built between the 15th and 16th centuries; and the Scottish United Services Museum, which houses displays on the history of Scottish regiments.

Outlook Tower & Camera Obscura

The 'camera obscura' itself is a curious 19th-century device - something like a periscope, using lenses and mirrors to throw a live image of the city onto a large horizontal screen. The accompanying commentary is entertaining and the whole exercise has a quirky charm. The Outlook Tower offers great views over the city.

Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre

Housed in a former school, the Centre explains the making of whisky from barley to bottle, in a series of exhibits combining sight, sound and smell. The first, more interesting part is led by a guide, while the second part involves riding a 'barrel car' past several tableaux depicting the history of the 'water of life' - Johnnie Walker meets Walt Disney.

As a reward, you get a wee taste of the real thing, before being channelled into a shop full of whisky. There's also a restaurant, Amber, that serves traditional Scottish dishes with, where possible, a dash of whisky thrown in.