Getting there & Getting around

Getting there

Traveling by air is the most common way to get to Ecuador. Quito's international airport, Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre (tel: 02 294 4900; www.quitoairport.com) is about 10km (6mi) north of the city center, and Guayaquil's airport, Aeropuerto Simón Bolívar (tel: 04 228 2100; Av de las Américas s/n) is about 5km (3mi) north. Both have direct connections to Houston, Los Angeles, Miami and New York. Nearly all flights from Europe and Australasia go via these cities or through the Caribbean. Some airlines also fly direct from Central and South American countries. The region's main international hub is Lima - it can be cheaper to fly to Peru and continue overland to Ecuador (a 24-hour bus trip).

From North or Central America, the Panamericana (Highway) stops in Panama and begins again in Colombia, leaving a 200km (124mi) roadless section of jungle - the Darien Gap. Most overland travelers fly over this region or jump on a private yacht as a crew member. Once in South America, travel by public bus from neighboring Andean countries.

Driving a private car into Ecuador can be a hassle. You are officially required to have a Carnet de Passage en Douane (CPD) to temporarily 'import' the car without paying an import tax. Motorcycles present fewer problems.

You can travel down the Río Napo from Ecuador to Peru. However, border facilities are minimal and boats are infrequent. Few cruise ships stop at Guayaquil as they head down the Pacific Coast. A few cargo lines carry passengers, but it usually costs more than flying.

Getting around

Ecuador has an efficient air transport system. As the country is small and relatively cheap, budget travelers have the option of internal flights. The main domestic airlines are TAME and Icaro. Two of the Galápagos Islands can be reached by air from the mainland, but they're expensive - it's no longer possible to travel to the islands by boat.

Most travelers use buses. Busetas (22-seat buses) cover long distances quickly; autobuses are slower but more social and fun. Carry your passport when traveling as there are frequent (usually cursory) transit police checks on the highway. Camionetas (pick-ups), rancheras(trucks) and taxis can be hired for long journeys - negotiate a price before you ride. Most cities and towns have a main terminal terrestre (bus terminal).

Local buses are usually slow and crowded, but very cheap. Outside Quito, fixed stops are virtually nonexistent. To get on, flag them down; to get off, yell Baja! (Down!).

Hitching is not practical in Ecuador: there are few private cars and there is ample public transport.

Rental cars are available in Guayaquil, Quito and Cuenca.

Two vestiges of Ecuador's train system still function: the tourist train from Quito to El Boliche and the descent from Riobamba to Sibambe. The latter is known as the Naríz del Diablo (Devil's Nose) - its hair-raising switchbacks were one of the world's greatest feats of railroad engineering.

Visa information

Most travelers entering Ecuador as tourists, including citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Japan, the EU, Canada and the USA, do not require visas. Upon entry, they will be issued a T-3 embarkation card, which is valid for 90 days. To obtain a 90-day extension (for a grand total of 180 days) go to the Jefatura Provincial de Migración (tel: 02 224 7510; Isla Seymour 1152 near Río Coca, Quito) one weekday before your initial 90 days expires. If you overstay your visa, even by a day, you will cop a nasty fine. Sixty-day stamps are rarely given, but double check if you're going to be in the country for a while. Citizens of Central American and some Asian countries require visas.

All travelers entering as diplomats, students, laborers, religious workers, business people, volunteers and cultural exchange visitors require non-immigrant visas. Various immigrant visas are also available.

Visas enable holders to apply for a censo (temporary-residence card). Visas must be obtained from an Ecuadorian embassy and cannot be arranged within Ecuador.

Non-tourist visa holders must register at the Dirección General de Extranjería (tel: 02 223 1022) in Quito within 30 days of arrival in Ecuador. If visa holders wish to leave the country and return, they need a salida (exit).