Not to miss

Goma

Goma is a base camp for the UN and other NGO's dealing with the casualties of war - such as former child soldiers and people separated from their families. The town has changed beyond recognition with the eruption of Mt Nyiragongo, which covered it in molten rock.

Kinshasa

Kinshasa is a huge, sprawling city, with more inhabitants crammed along its dusty roads than live in the whole country of neighbouring Congo. It is hectic, confusing and colourful, a sort of New York of Central Africa. But no-one could call it pretty.

The shanty towns of the suburbs are where you will find most of the population: hordes of begging children, women selling manioc, and men selling palm wine from huge, dusty plastic containers. Kinshasa is worth a visit for its traditional handicrafts, and for the nightlife and its vibrant music.

Kisanto Botanical Gardens

The botanical gardens in Kisanto are worth a visit. With a collection of 100-year-old trees from all over the world, and gentle rivers in which to swim, Kisanto makes a pleasant break for travel (and world) weary souls.

Kinkole Fish Market

The fish market at Kinkole was constructed by Mobutu to honour the country's fishermen as part of his 'authenticity' campaign. You can hire a priogue for 10.00 an hour and be paddled down the Congo River, drink intoxicating palm wine on the riverbank and try some of the country's best liboke (fish stewed in manioc leaves).

Chutes de Lukia

A must-see while in Kinshasa, the Chutes de Lukia have a decent restaurant, natural lakes to swim in and a Bonobo (pygmy chimp) orphanage, where you can play with the younger chimps. Beware if you are allergic to white 4WDs and walkie-talkies - it's a favourite haunt of resident UN and aid worker staff at weekends.