Not to miss

Šumava

For large, tranquil forests, unpolluted and undamaged by acid rain, you can't go past the Šumava Mountains, which stretch along the border with Austria and Germany. The only wildlife left behind by past hunting are birds, though deer have been re-introduced. Wildflowers abound throughout the range.

The oldest mountains in the Czech Republic, the Šumava - two rounded ranges with high plains and moors between them - are ideal for walking or trekking, and although the mountainous terrain rules out cycling on most hiking trails, the many dirt roads are good for an adventurous and challenging ride.

The mighty Vltava rises in the Šumava, as do five other major rivers. Two canals traverse the region and there are five major lakes, so boating is not out of the question. Conditions are perfect for skiing and ski-touring.

Prague

Matička Praha - 'little mother Prague' - was largely undamaged by WWII, and the cityscape is stunning. Its compact medieval centre remains an evocative maze of cobbled lanes, ancient courtyards, dark passages and churches beyond number, all watched over by an 1100-year-old castle.

Kidnapped by communism for 40 years, Prague has become one of Europe's most popular tourist destinations. Its traditional pubs and eateries have been augmented by a wave of gourmet restaurants, cocktail bars and trendy cafes - though you can still feast on pork and dumplings washed down with a beer.

In counterpoint to the city's venerable past, Prague's social life is incredibly youthful, mixing young Czechs in search of urban adventure with hordes of 20-something expats in search of the romanticism of Golden Prague. Though veteran travellers complain that their secret treasure has been discovered by the world, the evening sun still shimmers across the city's domes and spires, the clatter and chatter of Czechs enjoying an after-work drink spills from the open doors of back street pubs, and from the window of the public recreation centre, Dvořák's folksy symphonies are played on an out-of-tune piano. In some ways, Prague carries on as it always has.

Moravské Slovácko Region

This region's special flavour arises not only from a mild climate but also from the character and temperament of the people - passionate, jovial and relaxed. It's one of central Europe's richest repositories of traditional folk culture and one of the most delightful places to stay in the republic.

An extraordinary reservoir of colourful traditions in speech, dress, building and decorating styles, there are annual festivals all over the place, at which singing, dancing and music are the norm, and traditional food is washed down with ample supplies of local wine.

The variety of colourful folk costumes is especially mindboggling, sometimes varying totally from one village to the next, and the houses in many villages are still painted in traditional white with a blue band around the bottom, many embellished with painted flowers and birds. The best time to see the costumes, and to hear the local music is at a local festival. Visit Blatnice, Straznice and Vlcnov for their festivals.

Sampling wine is ritual in the area's distinctive small household wine cellars, or vinne sklipky. In places such as Petrov they are partially underground; in Vlcnov they are more like huts. At Prusanky the wine cellars constitute virtually a separate village.

Karlstejn

Karlstejn is the Czech Republic's star castle and it lives up to the highest expectations. Perched on a crag that overlooks the Berounka river, and sporting a spotless paint job, this cluster of turrets, high walls and looming towers is as immaculately maintained as it is powerfully evocative.

There are two guided tours through the castle. Tour I (50 minutes) passes through the Knight's Hall, still daubed with the coats of arms and names of the knight vassals, Charles IV's bedchamber, the Audience Hall and the Jewel House, which includes treasures from the Chapel of the Holy Cross and a replica of the St Wenceslas Crown.

Tour II (70 minutes) must be booked in advance and takes in the Great Tower, the highest point of the castle, which includes a museum on Mocker's restoration work, the Marian Tower and the exquisite Chapel of the Holy Cross, with its decorative ceiling.

Koněprusy Caves

Human bones, the remains of a woolly rhino and a forge for counterfeiting coins are some of the oddities to be found in the guts of these impressive 600m/1969ft-deep limestone caves. Take a pullover: it's a constant, chilly 10°C (50°F), and you'll be down there for 45 to 60 minutes. Plus, if you get hungry there's no food to speak of except a snack bar at the caves.

The caves lie 6km (3.7mi) south of Beroun. It's worth checking for bus times with the Beroun tourist office before you head out.

Kladruby

A Benedictine abbey was founded here in 1115 and, following repeated plundering in the Thirty Years' War, received a major facelift by prominent Bohemian artists Giovanni Santini and Kilian Ignatz Dientzenhofer. The main attraction is the Abbey Church of the Holy Virgin, rebuilt between 1712 and 1726 by Santini in an extraordinary 'baroque Gothic' style.

The church has the original floor plan of a Romanesque basilica, the longest in Bohemia (85m/279ft). The church itself is an improbable marriage of baroque flamboyance and Gothic severity that would verge on tongue-in-cheek if it wasn't so beautiful. A standard tour includes the cloisters, with several dozen allegorical sculptures by celebrated baroque sculptor Matthias Bernard Braun.

The abbey hosts hourly group tours. There are two circuits: Tour I (one hour) includes the monastery and church, while Tour II (45 minutes) takes in the chateau. In summer occasional classical concerts are held in the abbey's grounds.

Telč Chateau

Like the cherry on a cake, Telč's Renaissance chateau, part of which is known as the Water Chateau, guards the north end of the peninsula. Rebuilt from the original Gothic structure in 1553-56 by Antonio Vlach and 1566-68 by Baldassare Maggi, the surviving structure remains in remarkably fine fettle, with immaculate lawns and beautifully kept interiors.

Prague Castle

Prague Castle is one of the most impressive buildings you will ever visit. It has a magnificent clifftop outlook and a 1000-year-old history going back to a simple walled-in compound in the ninth century. The scale of this castle is breathtaking - it qualifies as the biggest ancient castle in the world.

Prague Castle - Pražsky hrad, or just hrad to Czechs, and almost a small town in itself - is Prague's most popular attraction. According to the Guinness World Records, it's the largest ancient castle in the world - 570m/1870ft long, an average of 128m/420ft wide and covering a total area bigger than seven football fields.