Not to miss

San José

A few days in San José, home to over one third of all Ticos, will give you an insight into the true character of the nation. The city's markets are colorful and vibrant, and its nightlife is as sophisticated (or as debauched) as you want it to be.

San José is also home to a number of galleries and museums, and there are a few neighborhoods in the city still radiating colonial style. The assault on the senses that is Chepe is perhaps your best opportunity for understanding the complexities of modern-day Costa Rica.

Monteverde & Santa Elena

The Tico village of Santa Elena and the Quaker settlement of Monteverde snuggle between two lovingly preserved cloud forests. This unique area, once billed as the place to view the resplendent quetzal bird, remains one of Costa Rica's premiere ecotourism destinations.

Monteverde is great place to get inspired about a world where organic farming and alternative energy sources help to replenish the planet. That said, it's also a place where you can marvel at the latest in eco-fashion. Clearly, the balance between eco-park and Eco-Disney remains fragile.

Parque Nacional Chirripó

At 3820m (12,533ft), Cerro Chirripó is Costa Rica's highest peak and the centerpiece of a gorgeous national park set in the rugged Cordillera de Talamanca. Lush cloud forest, high alpine lakes and bare paramó define the landscape. A well-marked hiking trail leads to the top where trekkers can sleepover in a mountain hostel. It's a two-day climb.

Get ready for mud. The steep 16km (10mi) ascent winds through changing scenery with abundant vegetation. Wildlife includes the harpy eagle and resplendent quetzal. Start early and allow six to eight hours to reach the hostel. It's a hard grind, so take plenty of water and provisions. From there, the terrain flattens and it's a two-hour hike to the summit.

The highland forests are home to birds such as the flame-throated warbler and buffy tuftedcheek, to name but two. Small brown frogs and lime-colored caterpillars thickly covered with stinging hairs make their way across the trail, and spider monkeys and Baird's tapirs lurk in the thick vegetation (though you aren't likely to see them). Eventually, the trail climbs out of the rainforest into the bare and windswept páramo.

All park fees are payable at the ranger office.

Parque Nacional Santa Rosa

Santa Rosa is a wild space of pristine beaches, tropical dry forests and savannahs of thorn trees and swaying jaragua grass. The wildlife on Península Santa Elena is both varied and prolific, especially during the dry season. The rainy months of September and October are best for turtle watching. Here you'll find arribadas (mass-nesting) of up to 8,000 olive ridley sea turtles.

Established in 1971, this national park is one of the oldest in Costa Rica - it's also one of the biggest, spanning 38,674ha (95,565 acres). Santa Rosa is one of the best-developed, though still simple, camping facilities of the nation's parks.

The surfing at Playa Naranjo is world-renowned, especially near Witches Rock, famous for its 3m (9.8ft) curls (not recommended for beginners). Although this is a beach break, there are rocks near the river mouth. Be especially careful near the estuary as it's a rich feeding ground for crocodiles during the tide changes. The surfing is equally legendary off Playa Portero Grande at Ollie's Point.

Buses between Liberia and the Nicaraguan border of Peñas Blancas stop at the entrance; rangers can help you catch a return bus. Alternatively, arrange private transportation from a hotel in Liberia.

Península de Nicoya

The Nicoya Peninsula is a sun-drenched strip of land with over 130km (81mi) of stunning coastline bound by dry, tropical rainforest. As looks go, it's a beauty and the most popular tourist destination in the whole country. Though the coastlines are being increasingly colonized by gringos, the interior remains dedicated to agriculture and ranching.

In the past, poor access kept development in check. The recently constructed Friendship Bridge and the international airport in Liberia have created fast-track access. The resort mania around Playa Panamá and Playa Tambor is quickly spreading south. With record numbers of foreigners flocking to Nicoya, it's more important than ever for visitors to be conscientious about their impact.